Kathmandu, Nepal-2-day-itinerary

Two days means picking three sights and skipping the rest

With only two days you can’t do all three Durbar Squares, both stupas, and Pashupatinath, so this plan cuts hard: one Durbar Square, one stupa, and Pashupatinath, with Bhaktapur and Nagarkot left out entirely because they need more time than you have.

Getting in fast: the visa-on-arrival queue at Tribhuvan International can eat 45-90 minutes in peak season, October-November especially, so fill out the online arrival form beforehand if you can. Bring cash US dollars, $30 covers the 15-day visa which is plenty for a two-day trip. Skip the curb taxi touts quoting NPR 1,500+, use the airport’s prepaid counter instead, a fixed NPR 700-800 to Thamel.

Day 1: Kathmandu Durbar Square and Swayambhunath. Start early at Kathmandu Durbar Square, NPR 1,000 for a same-day ticket, not the inflated NPR 1,500 some older posts quote. Most of the 2015 earthquake reconstruction is done, including the Kasthamandap pavilion which reopened in 2023-24, though a bit of scaffolding remains in places. From there head to Swayambhunath, the actual Monkey Temple, NPR 200, about 365 steps up the east side, and go before midday heat sets in. For lunch, skip the Thamel tourist menus if you can spare the extra 20 minutes to reach Patan for a proper Newari thali. If you’re staying central, a momo stall will do at NPR 150-300. Evening: walk Thamel for gear or souvenirs, bargaining is expected, and grab dinner at Thakali Bhanchha Ghar for a solid set meal at NPR 400-700.

Day 2: Pashupatinath and Boudhanath, then wrap up. Morning at Pashupatinath, NPR 1,000, the Hindu cremation site on the Bagmati. You won’t get past the outer gate of the inner pagoda as a non-Hindu, but the view of the cremation ghats from across the river is available and worth the visit, keep it respectful and don’t point a camera at grieving families. If a self-appointed holy man puts a tika on your forehead uninvited, expect a demand for money afterward, decline before contact or agree a small fixed sum up front. Midday, Boudhanath Stupa, NPR 400, walk the kora loop around the base rather than just photographing it from the gate. Use the afternoon for any last shopping in Thamel, then head to the airport with buffer time for traffic.

What this itinerary deliberately skips: Bhaktapur needs 45-90 minutes each way plus real time on the ground, it doesn’t fit in two days without gutting everything else. Nagarkot’s sunrise trip requires an overnight. Patan Durbar Square, arguably the best-preserved of the three squares, also gets cut here, if you can add even a half-day, prioritize Patan over a second visit to Kathmandu Durbar Square.

Getting around both days: taxis are legally metered but drivers won’t use it, agree the price first. Pathao and InDrive apps lock in a fare before you commit and are more reliable, though some drivers push for extra cash at drop-off, hold to the app price. There’s no metro system, and Thamel’s narrow, motorbike-heavy streets eat more time than they look like they should.

Two days is enough to see Kathmandu’s core, not enough to also do the valley, don’t try to squeeze in a day trip on top of this.