Lalibela, Ethiopia
Travel advisory, as of October 2026. Lalibela is in Ethiopia’s Amhara region, where the UK FCDO advises against all travel and the US government tells its citizens not to travel. Fighting has resumed across northern Ethiopia, flights to Lalibela have been suspended since 24 September 2026 with no restart date announced, and there is no safe overland route. Nothing described here can be booked now; this page describes the town for a future visit once advisories change. Read the FCDO advice and the US State Department before making any plans.
Lalibela, Ethiopia
The eleven rock-hewn churches are carved from pink volcanic tuff. They are consecrated Orthodox churches in daily use, not a museum.
Reaching Lalibela
- Lalibela has an airport (LLI), but flights have been suspended since 24 September 2026.
- By road, Addis Ababa is about 680 to 700 km away, which in peacetime meant 14 to 18 hours or more over two days. Overland travel is against current advice.
- Bahir Dar, Gondar, the Simien Mountains and the Tigray church sites are not day trips from Lalibela.
In the town
- Biete Giyorgis stands alone in a quarry pit and is the only cruciform church.
- Biete Medhane Alem is about 33.5 by 23.5 by 11.5 metres, with 34 outer and 38 inner columns, and it holds the gold Lalibela Cross.
- Take shoes off at every church, cover shoulders and knees, and keep voices low. Women cover their heads. Ask before taking any photo, use no flash during prayer, and do not touch the carvings.
- Women may not enter Biete Golgotha.
- The foreigner ticket for the churches is reported at US$50 to US$100; confirm on arrival.
Food and rooms
- Ben Abeba is a hilltop restaurant north of town that reopened in December 2022. Torpido, also called Askalech Tej Bet, is a tej house reached by an alley behind the police station. Both are reported, not confirmed today.
- Hotels listed on booking sites include Mountain View Hotel, Roha Hotel, Mezena Lodge and Maribela Hotel. At least 45 hotels closed in the 2024 slump, and none can be recommended or booked now.
- Cash is the practical way to pay. ATMs and cards are unreliable.
Safety
- Several churches sit in unguarded quarry pits about 10 to 12 metres deep. Stone thresholds are polished and slippery, and the tunnel between two church groups is about 35 metres long and pitch dark, so carry a torch.
- The town is about 2,500 metres above sea level, so go slowly on the first day and drink water.