Arthurs Seat

Arthur’s Seat: Edinburgh’s Volcano, Free to Climb, Worth Every Step

In the middle of Scotland’s capital city, rising 251 metres from the Holyrood Park floodplain, is an extinct volcano. Arthur’s Seat is not a hill that happens to be volcanic in origin; it is a recognisably volcanic shape, formed around 350 million years ago during the Carboniferous period, and its craggy summit and distinctive silhouette are visible from most of central Edinburgh. The approach from the palace gates at Holyroodhouse, looking up at the summit with the Salisbury Crags sweeping left, is one of the more dramatic urban walking views in Britain.

The hike to the summit takes 30 to 45 minutes from the main path entry at the east of the park. It is appropriate for most fitness levels, though the upper section is rocky and requires some scrambling. Bring proper footwear regardless of the weather forecast – Edinburgh’s conditions can change fast, and the summit is always windier than the city below. The reward at the top: 360-degree views of Edinburgh’s skyline (Arthur’s Seat is higher than Edinburgh Castle’s crag), the Firth of Forth, and on clear days the Highlands in the north.

The standard path starts from the east of the park, near the car park off Queen’s Drive. An alternative route through the Gutted Haddie path on the north face is steeper and quieter. The walk along the base of the Salisbury Crags, without summiting, is a good option in poor weather – it takes about 45 minutes for the full circuit and the cliffs above are impressive regardless of the cloud level.

Holyrood Park

Arthur’s Seat sits within Holyrood Park, 263 hectares of green space managed by Historic Environment Scotland as a wild park within the city. Duddingston Loch, a small lake at the park’s southeastern edge, has a hide for birdwatching and is the kind of quiet corner most visitors miss. St Margaret’s Loch in the north of the park is closer to the main tourist routes and typically has swans.

What’s Nearby

The Palace of Holyroodhouse, the official Scottish residence of the monarch, is at the foot of the Royal Mile directly adjacent to the park entrance. Open to visitors when not in royal use, it covers 500 years of Scottish royal history and takes 90 minutes to tour properly.

The Royal Mile, Edinburgh’s most famous street, runs uphill from Holyroodhouse to Edinburgh Castle – one of the best concentrations of medieval and 17th-century architecture accessible on foot in Britain.

Eating

The Sheep Heid Inn in Duddingston, a 15-minute walk from the park’s southern edge, has been serving food and drink since 1360 and claims to be Scotland’s oldest pub. The beer garden and the interior both work; the Sunday roast is reliable.

After the summit, any cafe on the lower Royal Mile will serve you coffee and something to eat. For a proper meal that justifies the effort, Cannonball Restaurant on Castlehill at the top of the Royal Mile, or Timberyard in the Grassmarket below the castle, represent the better end of Edinburgh dining.