Atacama Desert

The Atacama Desert: Where Some Stations Have Never Recorded Rain

The driest non-polar desert on Earth sits in northern Chile between the Pacific coast and the Andes, at altitudes ranging from 2,400 to over 4,000 metres. Some Atacama weather stations have never registered measurable rainfall in their operational histories. The landscape that produces reads as implausible: salt flats the colour of white paint, lava fields, reddish-grey volcanic cones, geysers erupting at 4,320 metres, and sky dark enough that the world’s largest radio telescope array – ALMA, the Atacama Large Millimeter Array – is up on the Chajnantor Plateau at 5,050 metres because no atmosphere on Earth is as transparent.

For most visitors, the experience centres on San Pedro de Atacama, the adobe-built base town at 2,408 metres. Tours radiate outward from there.

What to See

El Tatio Geysers, 97 kilometres north of San Pedro, is the world’s highest geyser field: over 80 geothermal vents at 4,320 metres, most dramatic in the early morning when the temperature contrast between the steam and the cold air produces columns visible from a distance. Tours depart around 4am and return by midday. Cold. Worth it.

Valle de la Luna, 16 kilometres west, is the landscape that gave the Atacama its off-world reputation: multicoloured rock formations carved by wind and water into shapes that have no counterpart. The sunset views from the Gran Duna are specifically the thing most people come for. Salt caves in the valley floor take 20 minutes to walk through and are accessible without equipment.

Laguna Cejar, 24 kilometres south, is a hypersaline lagoon where the water is dense enough to float in without effort. It functions as the region’s low-altitude swimming option and takes about two hours to visit.

The ALMA Observatory is the most significant scientific installation in the region. Guided visits to the visitor centre at 2,900 metres (the operations site at 5,050 requires acclimatisation) require advance arrangement through the official ESO channels and explain research into star formation, distant galaxies, and interstellar chemistry that would not be possible from anywhere else on Earth.

Stargazing

The Atacama receives over 300 clear nights per year. The Milky Way is visible to the naked eye with a clarity that most northern hemisphere visitors have not experienced outside of remote wilderness. Several operators run guided nights with quality telescopes; the most long-established are SPACE and Alain Maury’s Atacama Astronomic Tour. Both deliver on the promise.

Food

San Pedro de Atacama’s restaurant scene has grown substantially with tourism. Llama dishes appear on menus and are worth ordering for the regional authenticity. Quinoa, grown at altitude in the surrounding communities, is in most traditional preparations. Pisco from the nearby Elqui Valley is the house spirit. The town also has empanada shops, market stalls, and a small Mercado Municipal for straightforward daily eating.

Practical Notes

Altitude is the non-negotiable factor. Spend at least one full day in San Pedro before attempting El Tatio or any high-altitude excursion. Drink significantly more water than you think necessary. UV intensity at altitude is extreme: SPF 50 sunscreen, hat, and sunglasses are not optional. Days reach 20 to 25 degrees Celsius but nights drop to -10 or below; pack thermal layers regardless of the daytime forecast. Book accommodation months ahead for September through November and December through February.