Bairro Alfama Lisbon

Alfama: Lisbon’s Oldest Neighbourhood Survived the 1755 Earthquake and the Tourism Industry

On November 1, 1755, an earthquake followed by a tsunami and fires destroyed approximately 85 percent of Lisbon. Alfama, the hillside neighbourhood above the Tagus that had been the Moorish medina of the city since the 8th century, survived largely intact. The narrow labyrinthine streets, the closely packed houses built without the grid regularity that made the lower city so vulnerable, the steep terrain that protected it from the tsunami – all of it held while the Pombaline city was built from scratch on the destroyed lowlands below.

Alfama has been Lisbon’s most visited neighbourhood for decades and is increasingly managed for that status. Parts of it have become very tourist-facing. The trick is knowing where to find the version of it that isn’t.

What to See

The Castelo de São Jorge at the hilltop has roots in the 5th century, Moorish fortifications added in the medieval period, and views that cover the full Lisbon skyline and the Tagus estuary. Entry costs around EUR 15; the castle itself is less interesting than the ramparts walk.

The Miradouro das Portas do Sol and the Miradouro da Santa Luzia are the two main viewpoints, both giving good views over the terracotta rooftops and the river. Santa Luzia has a tiled panel depicting pre-earthquake Lisbon.

The Sé de Lisboa, Lisbon’s cathedral, was built in 1147 immediately after the Christian Reconquest and has survived in various states through the intervening centuries. The cloister has Roman and Moorish archaeological remains. Entry to the cathedral is free; the cloister costs EUR 4.

Fado

Alfama is widely described as the birthplace of fado, Portugal’s UNESCO-recognised musical tradition of melancholy, longing, and loss. Traditional fado houses (tascas) in the neighbourhood offer performances in the evening, typically from around 8pm. Tasca do Chico, a small place on Rua dos Remédios, is frequently cited as among the most authentic. Tables are close, the sets are unannounced, and the experience rewards patience. Food is secondary to the music but serviceable.

Avoid the large fado dinner shows near the main tourist drag, which sell the aesthetic rather than the music.

Eating

The best simple eating in Alfama is from the smaller family restaurants off the main tourist paths. Grilled sardines in summer, bacalhau in any form, and pastéis de nata at Pastéis de Belém (technically not in Alfama but in Belém 20 minutes by tram) – these are the food priorities. The tram 28 passes through Alfama and is the most scenic and least efficient way to get anywhere; consider it part of the experience rather than transport.

Getting Around

Alfama is steep and the streets are cobblestone. Comfortable shoes with grip are not optional. Tuk-tuks operate throughout the neighbourhood; they are efficient, not cheap, and somewhat antithetical to the experience of wandering slowly. Walk.

Morning before 9am or late evening after 9pm gives you the neighbourhood at a register that midday cannot provide.