Bermuda
Pink Sands and Atlantic Charm: A Complete Guide to Bermuda
Bermuda sits about 1,000 miles off the coast of North Carolina in the North Atlantic, closer to Nova Scotia than the Caribbean. It is a British Overseas Territory made up of roughly 180 small islands and islets, with a total land area of just 21 square miles. Despite its size, Bermuda rewards thorough exploration. Its narrow lanes wind past pastel-coloured cottages, its water changes from pale aquamarine in the shallows to deep indigo offshore, and its culture reflects centuries of British colonial history layered over West African, Portuguese, and American influences.
Where to Go
Horseshoe Bay Beach
The pink sand here comes from crushed coral and shells mixed with a red organism called Foraminifera. The result is a blush hue that deepens when wet. Horseshoe Bay faces south, so the surf can pick up, making it one of the few places on the island where bodyboarding is worth attempting. The surrounding coves accessible at low tide offer calmer snorkelling.
The Royal Naval Dockyard
Built between 1809 and 1863 using enslaved and convict labour, the Dockyard served as Britain’s principal western Atlantic naval base. Today the Keep Yard houses the National Museum of Bermuda, which covers everything from privateering and the slave trade to America’s Cup racing history. The museum’s Commissioner’s House, dating from the 1820s, is considered the oldest cast-iron building in the western hemisphere. The Clocktower Mall occupies the old storage buildings and is a good spot to pick up local crafts.
Crystal and Fantasy Caves
These two cave systems were discovered in 1907 by two boys chasing a ball. Crystal Cave contains a crystal-clear underground lake roughly 55 feet below ground level, its floor visible at great depth. Stalactites descend close enough to the pontoon walkway that visitors can inspect them at eye level. Fantasy Cave next door is smaller but has a higher density of formations. Both are open for guided tours.
Gibbs Hill Lighthouse
Built in 1846, Gibbs Hill was among the first cast-iron lighthouses in the world. The 185 steps to the observation gallery are worth the climb. On clear days you can see the islands spread out to the north and the full sweep of the South Shore beaches below. The small tearoom at the base serves fish chowder and traditional scones.
St. George’s
Founded in 1612, St. George’s is one of the oldest continuously inhabited English-speaking settlements in the New World and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Ordnance Island in the harbour has a replica of the Deliverance, the ship that the survivors of the 1609 Sea Venture shipwreck built to continue their journey to Virginia. St. Peter’s Church on Duke of York Street has been in continuous use since 1612, though the current building dates mostly from the early 18th century. The uneven cobblestones and low whitewashed walls of the old town repay slow walking.
South Shore Park and Railway Trail
The South Shore Park connects several coves and headlands along a public footpath above the ocean. The old Bermuda Railway Trail runs the length of the island and is open to pedestrians and cyclists. The railway itself closed in 1948 and the tracks were removed, but the right-of-way passes through stretches of open land that show what the island looked like before development.
Bermuda Aquarium, Museum and Zoo
Located in Flatts Village, the aquarium holds one of the largest living coral reef tanks in the world. The North Rock exhibit replicates an actual Bermuda reef ecosystem. The zoo section covers Galapagos tortoises, Caribbean flamingos, and several species native to Bermuda including the endangered cahow, or Bermuda petrel, a seabird thought extinct for three centuries before it was rediscovered in 1951.
What to Eat
Bermuda Fish Chowder
The local fish chowder is darker and spicier than New England versions. It is seasoned with sherry peppers and black rum stirred in at the table. The base is typically rockfish or wahoo, with tomatoes and a long list of aromatics. Most local restaurants serve it.
Wahoo and Rockfish
Wahoo is the fish of choice for most local cooks. It is a dense, mild, white-fleshed deep-sea fish served grilled, pan-seared, or in sandwiches. Rockfish (actually a type of grouper) is common in chowders and as a fried fillet.
Codfish and Potatoes
Sunday breakfast of salt cod served with boiled potatoes, banana, avocado, and hard-boiled egg is a Bermudian institution. Locals take it seriously. Several hotel buffets and old-school cafes serve it on weekend mornings.
The Swizzle Inn
The Swizzle Inn in Bailey’s Bay has been open since 1932 and is the oldest pub on the island. The rum swizzle, made with dark and gold rum, orange and pineapple juice, grenadine, and Angostura bitters, was essentially invented here. The walls are papered with calling cards and business cards left by visitors over the decades.
The Lobster Pot
Located on Bermudiana Road in Hamilton, the Lobster Pot has been a consistent spot for fresh local seafood for decades. Spiny lobster (actually a rock lobster with no claws, different from the Maine variety) is in season September through March.
Local Fish Sandwiches
Several small takeaway spots around the island serve fried fish sandwiches on thick white bread with coleslaw. These are an inexpensive and genuinely local lunch option. Bailey’s Bay and various roadside spots carry them.
Where to Stay
Fairmont Southampton
Set on a hill above Port Royal on the south shore, the Fairmont Southampton has 593 rooms across several towers and a private beach accessible by a short funicular. The property spans 100 acres and includes multiple dining options, a large spa, and access to Port Royal Golf Course across the road.
Rosewood Bermuda
Rosewood Bermuda occupies the former Tucker’s Town peninsula near Castle Harbour on the east end of the island. It is among the more private options, with individual cottages spread across a hillside overlooking the beach. Access to Tucker’s Point Golf Course is included.
Grotto Bay Beach Resort
Grotto Bay is a mid-range option in Hamilton Parish, a few minutes from the airport. The property sits above two sea caves that open into the bay, and guests can swim or kayak inside them. The setting is unusual, and the resort has a relaxed atmosphere compared to the larger luxury properties.
Cambridge Beaches
Located on the far western tip of the island in Somerset, Cambridge Beaches is Bermuda’s oldest cottage colony resort, operating since 1923. Guests stay in separate cottages rather than a main hotel block, and the property has its own private harbour with five small beaches.
Smaller Guesthouses and Cottage Colonies
Bermuda has a tradition of cottage colonies and guesthouses that operate as an alternative to large hotels. These are typically family-owned properties with fewer rooms, kitchen facilities in some units, and rates that come in below the major resorts. The Bermuda Tourism Authority website lists current options.
Activities
Snorkelling and Diving
Bermuda sits at the northern limit of coral reef growth in the Atlantic. The reefs are not as extensive as tropical Caribbean systems, but they are healthy and relatively uncrowded. The island also has one of the densest concentrations of historic shipwrecks in the world, with over 300 wrecks accessible to divers. The most visited include the Constellation (a 1943 supply ship that inspired the novel and film The Deep) and the Hermes, a decommissioned Bermudian government vessel sunk deliberately as a dive site.
Kayaking and Paddleboarding
The Great Sound on the north side of the island is sheltered water, good for kayaking and paddleboarding. Several outfitters on the south shore offer equipment rental and guided trips. The mangrove edges of Ferry Reach near the airport are another quieter option.
Golf
Port Royal Golf Course is a public course redesigned by Roger Rulewich and reopened in 2009 on the same site where a course has been operating since 1971. It regularly appears on lists of top public courses worldwide. Tucker’s Point and Belmont Hills are two other full courses on the island.
Glass-Bottom Boat Tours
Several operators run tours from the Royal Naval Dockyard and Hamilton Harbour across the reef flats west of the island. These work for people who want to see the reef without getting in the water.
Cliff Jumping at Admiralty House
Admiralty House Park in Pembroke, just west of Hamilton, has limestone cliffs descending into deep clear water. Locals have jumped from the ledges here for generations. The park is free and open to the public.
Sailing and Racing
Bermuda has a serious sailing culture. The Newport Bermuda Race, held every two years in June, finishes in St. George’s Harbour. The Bermuda Race Week regatta in June draws international competitors. Visitors can charter boats or join day sails from Hamilton Harbour and the Dockyard.
Practical Tips
Getting There
Most visitors fly into L.F. Wade International Airport. There are direct flights from several US East Coast cities, Toronto, London Gatwick, and London Heathrow. The flight from New York is about two hours.
Getting Around
Bermuda has no car rentals for visitors. Transportation options are the public bus network, the Bermuda Railway Trail, taxis, the Sea Express ferry between Hamilton and the Dockyard, electric-assist bicycles, and moped or scooter rentals for those with a licence. The bus and ferry system uses the same fare card. Scooter accidents are common, particularly among visitors unfamiliar with driving on the left on narrow roads; take them seriously.
Currency and Costs
The Bermudian dollar is pegged 1:1 to the US dollar, and both currencies circulate freely. Bermuda is expensive by any measure. A mid-range dinner for two will typically run $80 to $120 without drinks. Hotel rooms at the major resorts frequently exceed $500 per night in peak season.
Weather and When to Go
Bermuda has a subtropical climate moderated by the Gulf Stream. Summers are warm and humid, winters mild. The peak season runs from April through October. The Atlantic hurricane season overlaps with the peak tourist season; Bermuda does not take direct hits frequently, but storms affect weather and travel periodically between June and November. Spring (April to June) offers good weather, lower hotel rates than midsummer, and the possibility of catching the Newport Bermuda Race in June.
Dress Code
Bermuda has a famously specific dress code culture. Bermuda shorts with long socks and a blazer are genuinely worn by businessmen in Hamilton. Many restaurants require collared shirts in the evening. Beachwear is for beaches and pools.
Customs
Bermuda has strict rules about importing plants, soil, and certain foods. The customs forms on arrival are not ceremonial. Penalties for importing prohibited agricultural items are real.