Bhaktapur Durbar Square, Nepal
Stepping Back in Time: Exploring Bhaktapur Durbar Square
Bhaktapur Durbar Square is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that transports visitors to Nepal’s medieval era. Located about 13 kilometres east of Kathmandu, the ancient city of Bhaktapur – once the capital of the Kathmandu Valley – has preserved its Newari architecture and traditions more completely than any other town in the region. The square itself served as the political and religious centre of the city for centuries, and walking through it today feels less like a tourist attraction and more like stepping into a living historical record.
The 2015 earthquake caused significant damage to parts of the square, and restoration work has been ongoing since then. Some structures remain under scaffolding, but the overall experience is still profound. Entry fees collected at the city gates fund conservation efforts, and the charge is worth paying.
What to See
Nyatapola Temple
The five-storey Nyatapola Temple is the tallest pagoda in Nepal, rising about 30 metres above Taumadhi Square. Built in 1702 during the reign of King Bhupatindra Malla, it was constructed so quickly – reportedly in just seven months – that it became a symbol of royal ambition and skilled Newari craftsmanship. Two enormous stone guardians flank each level of the staircase: wrestlers, elephants, lions, griffins, and the goddesses Baghini and Singhini. The temple is dedicated to the tantric goddess Siddhi Lakshmi, and its inner sanctum is generally not open to non-Hindus. Climbing the steep outer staircase is permitted and offers a closer look at the carved figures.
The 55-Window Palace
The royal palace complex dates from the 15th to 17th centuries and is named for the elaborately carved peacock windows lining its facade. The windows are considered masterworks of Newari woodcarving, with some panels taking craftsmen years to complete. The National Art Museum now occupies part of the building and holds a collection of religious paintings, bronze sculptures, and palm-leaf manuscripts.
Golden Gate (Sun Dhoka)
The Golden Gate, or Sun Dhoka, is the main entrance to the palace courtyard and is considered one of the finest pieces of repousse art in the world. Made from gilded copper, it depicts the goddess Taleju surrounded by a dense assembly of deities, serpents, and mythological creatures. The gate was commissioned by King Ranjit Malla in 1753.
Dattatreya Temple
Located in Tachapal Tole, a short walk from the main square, Dattatreya Temple is believed to be the oldest structure in Bhaktapur. It is unusual because it is sacred to Hindus, Buddhists, and followers of the Newari religion alike, as Dattatreya is seen as an incarnation of Vishnu in one tradition and a teacher of Buddhism in another. The square around it contains several smaller shrines and two math (monastery) buildings whose carved wooden windows – including the famous Peacock Window – are worth seeking out.
Pottery Square (Talako Tole)
A few minutes south of the main square, Pottery Square is where local potters still work using traditional foot-kicked wheels. Rows of clay pots, water jugs, and decorative items dry on wooden racks in the open air. Visitors can watch the process and buy directly from the makers. This is one of the few places in the Kathmandu Valley where a traditional craft industry has survived largely intact within a working residential neighbourhood.
Tachapal Tole
Beyond Dattatreya Temple, this quieter square offers a less crowded glimpse of Bhaktapur’s street life. Small shops sell bronze metalwork, thangka paintings, and wood-carved panels. Locals go about daily routines while tourists wander, making it a more relaxed alternative to the main square.
Newari Food and Where to Eat
Bhaktapur has its own distinct culinary tradition that differs from what you find in Kathmandu restaurants. Newari food is earthy, often spiced with timur (Sichuan pepper) and fenugreek, and frequently features beaten rice, offal preparations, and fermented condiments.
What to Eat
Juju Dhau (King Curd): Bhaktapur’s most famous food product, this thick yogurt is set and served in unglazed clay bowls, which give it a slightly earthy flavour. It is sweeter and creamier than standard dahi. Buy it at small shops around Taumadhi Square.
Bara: Thick savoury pancakes made from ground black lentils, cooked on a flat iron pan. Often served with spiced minced meat or a fried egg on top. A common street breakfast.
Chatamari: Sometimes described as Newari pizza, this thin rice flour crepe is topped with minced meat, egg, or just spiced lentils and eaten as a snack.
Samay Baji: A ceremonial Newari platter that includes beaten rice, roasted soybeans, dried fish, boiled egg, buffalo meat, and a small glass of aila (home-distilled grain spirit). It represents the full range of Newari flavours in a single spread.
Momo: Steamed or fried dumplings filled with buffalo or vegetable. Available everywhere in Nepal but particularly good at small family-run spots around the market.
Aila: A clear grain spirit distilled at home by many Newari families. You may be offered a small cup at local festivals or by guesthouse owners. It is strong and best taken slowly.
Where to Eat
Cafe Nyatapola: Located in a traditional multi-storey building on Taumadhi Square, this cafe has outdoor seating overlooking the Nyatapola Temple. The menu covers Nepali and international dishes. It is one of the more reliable options for tourists and handles dietary restrictions reasonably well.
Restaurants and tea houses around Taumadhi and Pottery Square serve juju dhau, momos, bara, and set meals at modest prices. Look for places with a few locals eating inside – that is usually a good indicator of quality.
Where to Stay
Bhaktapur has a growing number of guesthouses and small hotels, mostly converted from traditional Newari townhouses. Staying overnight means you get the square largely to yourself in the early morning and evening after day-trippers from Kathmandu have left.
Hotel Heritage: A boutique property in a renovated Newari building, with rooms overlooking the square. The location is difficult to beat for atmosphere.
Guesthouses around Taumadhi and Tachapal Tole: Several family-run guesthouses offer basic but clean rooms with roof terraces. These tend to be more affordable and give a better sense of neighbourhood life.
Dwarika’s Resort Dhulikhel: Located about 30 minutes’ drive from Bhaktapur on the edge of the Valley, this resort is a well-regarded luxury property with views toward the Himalayas. It makes a good base for those who want comfort while exploring the Valley at their own pace.
Activities
Woodcarving and Thangka Workshops
Several craft schools in Bhaktapur offer short workshops in traditional woodcarving, thangka painting, and metalwork. These range from a couple of hours to multi-day courses. The Woodcarving Training Centre near the main square is one well-established option; instructors there teach techniques passed down through generations of Newari craftsmen.
Cooking Classes
A few guesthouses and local families offer hands-on cooking sessions focused on Newari recipes – momos, bara, chatamari, and juju dhau preparation. These usually take a few hours and include a meal at the end. Ask your accommodation to arrange one, or look for notices in guesthouses around Taumadhi Square.
Walking the Neighbourhoods
The residential streets beyond the main squares reward slow exploration. Courtyards used for drying grain, small roadside shrines draped in marigold garlands, elderly men playing cards outside tea shops, women spinning wool on wooden frames – the pace of life in Bhaktapur moves differently from Kathmandu, and it shows.
Sunrise at the Square
Arriving at the square just after dawn, before the main tourist rush begins, is worth the early start. The light is better for photographs, the air is cooler, and the priests conducting morning pujas at the temples create a quieter and more contemplative atmosphere than the midday crowds allow.
Indra Jatra and Other Festivals
Bhaktapur hosts a full calendar of Newari festivals throughout the year. Bisket Jatra in April is the city’s New Year celebration and involves the raising of a massive wooden chariot that is pulled through the streets. Gai Jatra in August features processions to honour those who have died in the past year. If your visit coincides with any local festival, adjust your plans to be present – these events are central to Bhaktapur’s identity and are not staged for tourists.
Practical Information
Getting There: Buses from Kathmandu’s Ratna Park or City Bus Terminal run to Bhaktapur throughout the day. A taxi from central Kathmandu takes 30 to 50 minutes depending on traffic. Many visitors combine Bhaktapur with a visit to Changu Narayan, a hilltop UNESCO-listed temple about 6 kilometres north.
Entry Fee: Foreign tourists pay an entry fee at the city gates. The fee funds conservation work and is collected separately from Pashupatinath or Patan entry fees.
Best Time to Visit: October to December offers the clearest skies and comfortable temperatures. March to April is also good, though dustier. Monsoon season (June to September) brings lush green surroundings and fewer crowds, but rain can make the cobblestones slippery.
Practical Tips:
- Dress modestly when entering temples and religious courtyards. Shoulders and knees should be covered.
- Remove shoes before entering temple interiors where this is indicated.
- Ask before photographing people, especially during religious rituals.
- Haggling is normal in souvenir shops but should be respectful – the starting prices in Bhaktapur are generally lower than in Thamel.
- A local guide adds real depth to a visit. Many guides based in Bhaktapur have detailed knowledge of the history and iconography of the square that is hard to replicate from a guidebook.
Bhaktapur Durbar Square rewards time and attention. The more you slow down, the more it gives back.