Bhaktapur Durbar Square, Nepal

The Nyatapola Temple Was Built in Seven Months in 1702 and Still Stands at 30 Metres

Construction speed that would be respectable today, accomplished with Newari craftsmen and no power tools. The five-storey pagoda in Taumadhi Square has two enormous stone guardians flanking each level of the staircase: wrestlers, elephants, lions, griffins, and the goddesses Baghini and Singhini, each pair of guardians described as ten times more powerful than the pair below. The temple is dedicated to the tantric goddess Siddhi Lakshmi and the inner sanctum is closed to non-Hindus, but climbing the steep outer staircase is permitted and gives close access to the carved figures.

Bhaktapur Durbar Square is the UNESCO World Heritage site 13 kilometres east of Kathmandu that has preserved Newari architecture more completely than anywhere else in the valley. Once the capital of the Kathmandu Valley, the city still feels like the medieval political and religious centre it was. The 2015 earthquake caused significant damage and restoration work is ongoing, but the overall experience is still profound. Entry fees collected at the city gates fund conservation.

What to See

The 55-Window Palace dates from the 15th to 17th centuries and is named for the elaborately carved peacock windows on its facade. The National Art Museum inside holds religious paintings, bronze sculptures, and palm-leaf manuscripts.

The Golden Gate (Sun Dhoka) at the palace entrance is gilded copper work depicting the goddess Taleju surrounded by deities, serpents, and mythological creatures, commissioned in 1753 and considered one of the finest examples of repousse metalwork in the world.

Dattatreya Temple in Tachapal Tole, a short walk from the main square, is believed to be Bhaktapur’s oldest structure and is unusual because it is sacred to Hindus, Buddhists, and followers of the Newari religion simultaneously. The Peacock Window in a nearby math (monastery) building is one of the most photographed pieces of Newari woodcarving in Nepal.

Pottery Square a few minutes south has local potters still working on traditional foot-kicked wheels; rows of clay pots dry on wooden racks in the open air.

Newari Food

Juju Dhau (King Curd), Bhaktapur’s most famous product, is thick yogurt set in unglazed clay bowls that give it a slightly earthy, creamy quality. Buy it from small shops around Taumadhi Square. Bara (thick savoury pancakes from ground black lentils, often topped with minced meat or egg) are the standard street breakfast. Chatamari is a thin rice flour crepe with various toppings. These are not available in the same form anywhere else in Nepal.

Practical Notes

Staying overnight means having the square to yourself in the early morning and after the Kathmandu day-trippers leave, which is the best version of the visit. Buses from Kathmandu’s Ratna Park take 30 to 50 minutes. October through December offers clear skies and comfortable temperatures.