Big Island Hawaii
Aloha from the Big Island: Your Complete Travel Guide
Hawaii’s largest island covers more land area than all the other Hawaiian islands combined, and that scale translates directly into diversity. You can drive from snow-capped volcanic summits to black sand beaches, pass through coffee farms, cattle ranches, and dense rainforest, all in the same afternoon. The Big Island rewards curiosity and patience in equal measure.
Where to Visit
Hawaii Volcanoes National Park
This is the island’s defining attraction and one of the most geologically active places on Earth. Kilauea has been erupting continuously since 1983 in various forms, and the park lets you get genuinely close to that process.
Walk the Crater Rim Drive to see the Halema’uma’u crater, which holds an active lava lake during eruption cycles. The Chain of Craters Road descends nearly 4,000 feet to the coast, passing lava flows that buried entire communities in the 1980s and 1990s. The Thurston Lava Tube (Nahuku) is a short, well-maintained walk through a tunnel carved by flowing lava hundreds of years ago.
Check the park’s official site before visiting – eruption activity changes and some areas open or close on short notice. Sunrise visits are particularly rewarding when the glow from the caldera is most visible.
Mauna Kea
At 13,796 feet above sea level, Mauna Kea is the tallest mountain in the world when measured from its base on the ocean floor. The summit hosts some of the world’s most advanced optical and infrared telescopes, operated by multiple international research institutions.
The visitor information station at 9,200 feet is the safe stopping point for acclimatization. Free public stargazing programs run there most nights, weather permitting, with volunteers staffing telescopes. Guided summit tours are available from operators in Kona and Waimea for those who want to reach the top with less risk of altitude sickness.
The drive to the summit requires a four-wheel-drive vehicle. Rental car companies typically prohibit their standard vehicles on this road, so check your rental agreement carefully.
Waimea (Kamuela)
The town sits at roughly 2,700 feet in the island’s interior, surrounded by the Parker Ranch, one of the largest privately held cattle ranches in the United States. The town has a distinctly different character from the coastal resort areas – cooler temperatures, open grasslands, and a strong ranching history that goes back to the early 19th century.
The local farmers market runs on Saturdays and draws producers from across the island. The town also has several good independent restaurants and a handful of art galleries focused on local artists.
Waipio Valley
This steep-walled valley on the island’s northeast coast was once the home of Hawaiian royalty and remains culturally significant. The valley floor holds taro farms, wild horses, and a black sand beach at the mouth of the Wailoa Stream.
The road into the valley drops at a 25 percent grade and is accessible only to four-wheel-drive vehicles or on foot. Several tour companies offer guided valley floor trips by horseback or van. Even if you only stand at the valley lookout, the view across the cliffs and down to the shore is worth the drive.
Kealakekua Bay
On the South Kona coast, this bay is one of the best snorkeling and diving spots in Hawaii. The water is clear, the reef is healthy, and spinner dolphins regularly rest in the bay during morning hours. Captain Cook’s monument sits on the north shore of the bay, marking the spot where the British explorer died in 1779.
Access is either by kayak from the south end of the bay, by boat tour, or by a long trail from the trailhead above. The trail is steep and exposed; bring water and sunscreen.
Pu’uhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park
Known historically as the Place of Refuge, this site on the South Kona coast was a sanctuary in ancient Hawaiian society – those who broke kapu (sacred law) could escape punishment by reaching this ground. The park preserves royal fishponds, temple platforms (heiau), carved ki’i akua (wooden deity figures), and stone walls that surrounded the sacred area.
The grounds are easy to walk and the park provides good interpretive materials. Early mornings are quieter and offer better light for photography.
Punalu’u Black Sand Beach
One of the most accessible black sand beaches on the island, Punalu’u is located on the southeast coast between Volcano and Na’alehu. The black sand comes from lava that shattered on contact with seawater. Hawaiian green sea turtles (honu) regularly haul out on the beach to rest – you can watch them from a respectful distance, but federal and state law prohibits approaching or touching them.
The water here has strong currents and is not recommended for swimming, but the beach itself and the turtles make it a worthwhile stop.
Hapuna Beach State Recreation Area
On the west coast, Hapuna is widely considered one of the best white sand beaches in Hawaii. The sand is soft, the water is generally calm in summer, and the offshore snorkeling is good. It gets crowded on weekends; weekday mornings are quieter.
Activities
Snorkeling and Diving
The Kona and Kohala coasts have some of the clearest water in the Pacific. Kealakekua Bay is the standout snorkel spot. The Two-Step entry point near Pu’uhonua o Honaunau offers easy water access and excellent coral. For divers, the pinnacles off the Kohala coast and the lava tube systems along the Kona coast are popular with local dive operators.
The manta ray night dives and snorkel trips off the Kohala Coast are a genuinely unusual experience. Mantas gather nightly near dive sites where underwater lights attract plankton, and they feed in slow, looping passes just beneath the surface.
Hiking
The options range from short paved walks to multi-day wilderness routes. In Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, the Kilauea Iki Trail drops into a solidified lava lake and is one of the best day hikes on the island. The Napau Crater Trail takes you deeper into the rift zone. Both require checking current conditions before you go.
Akaka Falls State Park near Hilo has a short paved loop through dense vegetation that passes two waterfalls, including Akaka Falls at 442 feet. The trail takes about 30 minutes and is accessible for most fitness levels.
Pololu Valley at the north end of the Kohala coast offers a steep but short trail to a black sand beach with sea cliffs on either side.
Stargazing
The Mauna Kea visitor center program is free and well run. For a more structured experience, several companies offer guided stargazing tours with telescope access and narration. The lack of light pollution on most of the island means that even informal stargazing from a dark field is worthwhile on clear nights.
Coffee Farm Visits
The Kona coffee belt runs along the slopes of Hualalai volcano on the west side of the island, roughly between the elevations of 1,000 and 2,500 feet. The combination of volcanic soil, morning sun, and afternoon cloud cover produces conditions that coffee farmers have worked for over 150 years.
Several family farms along the belt offer free or low-cost tours that walk you through the cultivation and processing stages. The Kona Coffee Cultural Festival takes place in November each year and includes farm tours, cuppings, and events across the region.
Whale Watching
Humpback whales migrate to Hawaiian waters from Alaska between roughly December and April to breed and calve. The channel between the Big Island and Maui is a primary corridor, and boat tours operating out of Kawaihae Harbor and Kailua-Kona offer morning whale watch trips during season.
Where to Eat
Hilo Side
Hilo has a more local character than the Kona resort corridor, and the food reflects that. The Hilo Farmers Market, open daily but largest on Wednesdays and Saturdays, is a good place to try fresh tropical fruit, poke, and prepared foods from local vendors.
The Bayfront area in downtown Hilo has a range of small restaurants serving local plate lunches, Japanese food, and Hawaiian staples like loco moco and saimin. Look for restaurants that have been operating for decades – longevity in the Hilo food scene is generally a reliable indicator of quality.
Kona Side
The Kona coast has more tourist-facing dining, ranging from resort restaurants to food trucks along Ali’i Drive in Kailua-Kona. The Keauhou Shopping Center and the Old Industrial Area in Kona have more locally oriented options with lower prices than the waterfront.
Poke – raw fish seasoned with soy sauce, sesame oil, green onions, and other additions – is available at grocery stores, fish markets, and dedicated poke shops across the island. Supermarkets like KTA Super Stores carry multiple fresh preparations daily and represent some of the best value on the island.
Shave ice is a staple dessert. Quality varies; look for operations that shave the ice fresh rather than using pre-shaved ice, and that offer locally sourced flavors.
Waimea Area
The elevation and agricultural surroundings make Waimea a good base for farm-to-table dining. Several restaurants in town source directly from the ranches and farms nearby, which is straightforward given how much food is produced in the area.
Where to Stay
Hilo
Hilo has limited large resort development, which keeps accommodation prices lower than on the Kona side. The hotels along Banyan Drive overlook Hilo Bay and Coconut Island. The area is quieter and less developed than the Kohala Coast, and proximity to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (45 minutes) and the Hamakua Coast makes it a practical base for exploring the eastern half of the island.
Kailua-Kona and the Kohala Coast
The majority of the island’s large resorts sit on the leeward Kohala Coast, where rainfall is low and sunshine is reliable. The resort corridor from Waikoloa to Kaupulehu includes several large properties with extensive amenities. These properties are largely self-contained, which is convenient but can make it harder to engage with the broader island.
Kailua-Kona itself is a town rather than a resort, with a range of smaller hotels, vacation rentals, and condos at more moderate prices than the Kohala resorts.
Volcano Village
The small community adjacent to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park sits at about 3,700 feet in elevation and is surrounded by ohia forest. Temperatures are cool, sometimes dropping below 50 degrees Fahrenheit at night. Bed and breakfasts and small rental cottages in the village provide access to the park early and late, when the park road is less crowded. Volcano House, the historic lodge inside the park boundary, has rooms and a restaurant directly overlooking the caldera.
Vacation Rentals
Vacation rental inventory across the island is substantial, and renting a house or condo often makes more economic and practical sense for stays longer than a few days, particularly for families or groups. The North Kohala area and the Hamakua Coast have rural rentals with views over the ocean and easy access to less-visited parts of the island.
Practical Tips
Getting Around: A rental car is effectively required for any meaningful exploration of the island. Public transportation exists but is limited. The island is large enough that you should plan driving distances carefully – it takes over two hours to drive from Hilo to the Kohala resorts, and the road surfaces range from smooth highways to rough unpaved tracks.
Weather Variation: The Big Island has more distinct climate zones than any island in Hawaii. The Kona and Kohala coasts are dry and sunny most of the year. Hilo receives more rainfall than almost any other city in the United States. The summit of Mauna Kea can have snow in winter. Pack accordingly – light layers work well, but if you are heading to higher elevations, bring something warm regardless of what the weather looks like at sea level.
Booking Ahead: Demand for accommodation and tours – particularly volcano-adjacent lodging, manta ray dives, and summit tours – exceeds supply during peak travel periods. Booking several months ahead for visits during summer, winter holidays, and spring break is advisable.
Sun and Altitude: UV exposure at both sea level and high elevation on the Big Island is intense. Reef-safe sunscreen is both ecologically appropriate and legally required in Hawaii state parks. At the Mauna Kea summit, altitude sickness is a real concern – spend time at the visitor station before ascending, and descend immediately if you develop headaches, nausea, or confusion.
Respect for Land and Culture: Many sites on the island are sacred to Native Hawaiian communities. Treat heiau, petroglyph fields, and culturally significant natural areas with care. Do not remove lava rocks, coral, or sand – beyond being disrespectful, it is illegal in most contexts.
The Big Island offers more variety than most places of its size. Volcanic landscapes, ocean reefs, agricultural highlands, and deep cultural history sit within driving distance of each other. Spend enough time to move between the island’s different zones rather than staying in one place, and the range of what you can experience becomes clear.