Casino Monte Carlo

Casino de Monte-Carlo: What You Should Actually Know Before You Go

Monaco is about 2 square kilometres and exists primarily to avoid tax. The Casino de Monte-Carlo has been at the centre of that arrangement since 1863, when Princess Caroline decided a gambling house would save the principality from bankruptcy. She was right. Monaco Monegasque citizens are not allowed to gamble there. Everyone else can.

The Building

The casino itself is a Belle Epoque masterpiece designed by Charles Garnier, who also built the Paris Opera. The exterior, with its baroque towers and immaculate formal garden, is as good as anything in the principality. The Place du Casino that surrounds it is permanently occupied by Ferraris, Lamborghinis, and the occasional Bugatti. Some people come just to watch the cars.

Entry to the ornate public atrium and the Salle Garnier opera house (when not in performance) is free. The casino gaming rooms open at 14:00 and charge a 17 euro entry fee. Bring your passport; Monaco is strict about identification. Smart casual dress is required, meaning jeans and trainers will get you turned away at the private salon entrances, though the main rooms are more relaxed about it.

Gambling: Reality Check

The main casino floor runs European roulette, blackjack, chemin de fer, and slot machines. Minimums in the main room start at around 5 euros, which is not the James Bond territory most visitors imagine. The Salles Privees in the back require a separate entrance fee (50-100 euros) and have higher minimums and a considerably more serious atmosphere.

Most tourists spend 20-30 euros, lose it moderately entertainingly, and leave. That is the correct way to experience a casino when you are not a serious gambler. Go with a fixed budget and no illusions.

Around the Casino

The Cafe de Paris next to the casino is good for coffee and people-watching. It is overpriced in the way everything in Monaco is overpriced, but the terrace has an unobstructed view of the Place du Casino and the car parade.

Le Louis XV by Alain Ducasse inside the Hotel de Paris is three Michelin stars and will cost 300-500 euros per person with wine. It is legitimately one of the best restaurants in Europe for special occasions. For something more affordable, La Marinda on Rue du Portier serves decent Italian at prices that, while still Monaco prices, will not require a second mortgage.

Monaco Ville

If you are spending more than a few hours, the old town on the Rock is worth visiting. It sits on a promontory above the casino and is accessed by elevator from the casino level or a steep walk. The Prince’s Palace (Palais Princier) has a formal changing of the guard at 11:55 every morning, smaller but more chaotic than London’s. The Oceanographic Museum on the cliff edge is genuinely excellent, founded by Prince Albert I in 1910, with a rooftop terrace that looks straight down to the port.

The Formula 1 Grand Prix

In May, the Monaco Grand Prix transforms the principality in ways that regular visitors find deeply irritating. Grandstand tickets start at around 300 euros and go up to several thousand for good positions. The streets are fenced off for practice and qualifying across multiple days before the Sunday race. Book accommodation 6-12 months ahead if you are coming during Grand Prix week, and expect prices to be three to five times normal levels.

Getting There

The nearest airport is Nice Cote d’Azur (NCE), about 30 km away. The train from Nice is the practical option: 22 minutes, runs every 30 minutes, costs 4.30 euros. Helicopters from Nice Airport to Monaco also operate (7 minutes, around 150 euros one-way, through Monacair), which is a memorable approach.

By car, parking is scarce and Monaco charges for it accordingly. Train is the sensible choice.

The casino closes late. Go at around 17:00 when the rooms have opened and before the main evening rush, have your 17 euros’ worth of looking around, possibly lose a modest stake at roulette, and then eat in Nice where the food quality is equal or better and everything costs roughly half as much.