Choquequirao, Peru

Choquequirao Has More Inca Ruins Than Machu Picchu and Gets Almost Nobody

Choquequirao sits at 3,035 metres in the Vilcabamba range of the Peruvian Andes, on a ridge above the Apurimac River canyon. It is probably larger than Machu Picchu – excavations are ongoing and only around 30 to 40 percent of the site has been cleared of vegetation, so the final extent is still unknown. It was likely built in the late 15th century under Topa Inca Yupanqui and expanded under Huayna Capac. Machu Picchu gets over a million visitors a year. Choquequirao, until recently, received under ten thousand.

The reason is simple: there is no road. Getting here requires a minimum four-day trek. A cable car project has been discussed and funded in theory for years – the Peruvian government has presented a PPP scheme involving USD 261 million and a 10.6km cable system that would reduce access time from two days to 20 minutes. As of 2026, the bidding process was reportedly due in the last quarter of 2025, and there is no confirmed construction start date. The site remains walk-in only. That could change, and if it does, visit before it does.

The Trek

The standard approach starts at Cachora, a village of about 1,000 people roughly 150 kilometres by road from Cusco – about 3.5 to 4 hours, partly on unpaved road. From Cachora, the trek to the ruins and back is a minimum of four days, most people doing five or six to allow proper time at the site.

Day 1: Cachora at 2,900 metres to Playa Rosalina at 1,550 metres on the Apurimac River. About 14 kilometres, mostly descending, 5 to 6 hours. Hot and dry in the lower section.

Day 2: Playa Rosalina to Choquequirao base camp at 2,950 metres. About 9 kilometres but 1,400 metres of ascent. This is the hardest day, with a steep trail through cloud forest in the upper section. Allow 6 to 7 hours.

Day 3: Explore the ruins. The site itself takes 3 to 5 hours to walk properly.

Day 4: Return to Cachora, or continue for a longer circuit toward Yanama and the Salkantay route to Machu Picchu, adding 3 to 5 more days.

You can carry your own gear and camp, hire arrieros (muleteers) in Cachora to carry loads and supplies – strongly recommended – or go with one of the more than 20 agencies now authorised to operate treks to the site from Cusco. Fully organised treks including guide, arrieros, tents, and food run USD 200 to USD 500 per person depending on group size and service level.

The Site Itself

Choquequirao’s main sector has a central plaza, agricultural terraces, ceremonial platforms, and residential compounds similar in construction to Machu Picchu. The element that makes it architecturally distinct is the llama terraces: a series of agricultural terraces on the steep ridge below the main plaza, decorated with inlaid stone figures of llamas. These are among the most unusual decorative elements found at any Inca site and are not reproduced anywhere at Machu Picchu.

The site’s guardians can show you sections that are harder to find independently, including the Usnu ceremonial platform and secondary sectors that require additional walking. Water is available at the campsite at the site’s edge – treat it before drinking.

Altitude and Preparation

Cusco is at 3,400 metres. The route descends to 1,550 metres and then climbs sharply to nearly 3,000 metres. Altitude sickness on the ascent from the river is common among trekkers who rushed their acclimatisation before leaving Cusco. Spend at least two nights in Cusco before starting, take the first day’s descent gently, and take altitude seriously – the remoteness of the site makes any medical issue significantly more complicated than at a more accessible destination.

What to Bring

Cash in soles – no card payments anywhere on the trek or at the site. A small entry fee is charged at the ruins. Strong hiking poles for the canyon descent and ascent. A lightweight rain jacket for the cloud forest section. Basic first aid including blister supplies. If you are not using a guiding agency, a local guide from Cachora is strongly recommended – the trail is not consistently marked.

Go before the cable car is built. The solitude is half the point.