Churchill

Churchill, Manitoba: Polar Bears, Belugas, and How to Get There

Churchill is a town of approximately 900 people on the southwestern shore of Hudson Bay in northern Manitoba, 1,700km north of Winnipeg. It is the only place on earth where you can observe all three of the following in close proximity: polar bears in the wild, beluga whales, and the northern lights with reliable frequency. This combination draws wildlife tourists from around the world, which is the primary reason the town’s economy functions at all.

Getting there

There is no road to Churchill. The options are VIA Rail from Winnipeg (2-3 days each way, depending on the train’s reliability, approximately CAD 400-600 return) or a flight from Winnipeg (about 2 hours, CAD 500-900 return depending on availability). Calm Air and Perimeter Aviation operate the routes. Flights are the practical choice for most visitors; the train is an experience in itself but the schedule is frequently disrupted.

Polar bears: October and November

Churchill sits on the migration route of polar bears moving from their summer inland denning grounds to Hudson Bay, where they wait for the ice to form so they can hunt ringed seals. The bears congregate along the shoreline from late September through November, peaking in October and early November before the bay freezes. An estimated 900-1,000 bears are in the Churchill Wildlife Management Area during peak season.

Tundra Buggy tours are the standard viewing method - large, high-clearance vehicles that operate on the tundra outside town, legally permitted to approach bears far more closely than is possible on foot. Frontiers North Adventures and Natural Habitat Adventures are the main operators. Full-day tundra tours run CAD 200-350 per person. The bears approach the vehicles out of curiosity; distances of 3-10 metres are common. Guests are not permitted to leave the vehicles.

Walking in bear territory without a guide is inadvisable and partially restricted during peak season. The Churchill Northern Studies Centre (a research station) has scheduled public tours.

Beluga whales: July and August

Tens of thousands of beluga whales (Delphinapterus leucas) enter the Churchill River estuary and Hudson Bay around the time of ice-out in late June and July. They come to calve, feed, and shed their skin in the warmer shallow estuarine waters. The concentration is extraordinary - standing on the Churchill River bank in July, you can watch hundreds simultaneously.

Sea North Tours and other operators run kayaking tours among the belugas. Kayaking among animals that are curious, vocal, and approaching within arm’s reach is unusual anywhere in the world; Churchill is one of very few places it is possible. The belugas are not aggressive. Kayak tours run CAD 90-150 per person for a two-to-three-hour session.

Northern lights

Churchill’s subarctic latitude (58 degrees north) puts it under the auroral oval. September through March are the reliable months; February has the most consistently clear and cold nights. Temperatures in winter regularly reach -40 degrees Celsius with windchill. Guided aurora viewing tours run after dark most evenings in season.

Staying and eating

Churchill has a handful of hotels. The Lazy Bear Lodge is the most established tourist-oriented option with packages including tours. The Polar Inn and Suites is the main town hotel. Accommodation is scarce during peak polar bear season and should be booked months ahead. The Gypsy’s Bakery on Kelsey Boulevard serves breakfast and lunch and is the closest thing to a reliable local institution for food.