Copper Canyon, Mexico

Copper Canyon: Bigger Than the Grand Canyon, Known by Far Fewer People

The Barrancas del Cobre (Copper Canyon) in Chihuahua, Mexico, is a canyon system formed by the Rio Fuerte and its tributaries in the Sierra Madre Occidental. It consists of six major canyons covering around 65,000 square kilometres. The deepest points exceed 1,800 metres. By comparison, the Grand Canyon is 446 km long and 1,857 metres deep at its deepest. Copper Canyon has more volume and more topographic variety, and in most years receives approximately 1% of the visitors.

The canyon takes its name from the greenish copper-coloured lichen covering its walls in places. It is home to the Raramuri (Tarahumara) people, indigenous runners who have lived here since before European contact and who are known for extraordinary long-distance running across the canyon terrain.

El Chepe: The Train

The El Chepe (Chihuahua al Pacifico) railway is the primary reason most visitors come. Running 655 km from Chihuahua city in the east to Los Mochis on the Pacific coast, it crosses 37 bridges, passes through 86 tunnels, and climbs from sea level to 2,400 metres before descending through the canyon. The full journey takes around 15-16 hours. Most serious travellers break it into 3-4 days with stops at El Divisadero, Creel, and/or Batopilas.

An express service (El Chepe Express) runs tourist-class with reserved seats and food service at higher prices (around 3,000-5,000 MXN for the full route). The regional train is cheaper but slower. Both originate from either end; Los Mochis departures are early morning to catch daylight through the best canyon sections. Book seats in advance, particularly for the El Chepe Express between October and April when demand is highest.

Key Stops

El Divisadero, at 2,400 metres, is the main viewpoint stop where even the regional train pauses for 20 minutes. The canyon drops 1,800 metres directly in front of you. The Mirador (viewpoint) is 50 metres from the train platform. A zipline from the rim operates here and costs around 1,500-2,000 MXN for a 2.5 km run above the canyon.

Creel is the main traveller hub: a small mountain town at 2,338 metres with hotels, restaurants, gear rental, and tour operators. Population around 5,000. The town itself is modest but well-served. From Creel, a 25 km drive leads to Arareko Lake, with eroded volcanic rock formations and Raramuri communities around its shores. A local guide (hire through guesthouses) makes the cultural dimension considerably richer.

Batopilas is 140 km from Creel by a road that descends 1,800 metres in 80 km. The descent takes 3-4 hours. Batopilas sits at 510 metres in the canyon bottom, near the confluence of the Rio Batopilas, in a semi-tropical climate completely different from the pine forests above. The town was a major silver mining centre in the colonial era; ruins of the haciendas and the Sat Asatevo Mission (which can only be reached on foot or mule) remain. Accommodation in Batopilas is basic; Copper Canyon Riverside Lodge is the main option.

Raramuri Communities

The Raramuri (Tarahumara) are approximately 70,000 people living across the canyon system, many in remote locations accessible only by foot or horse. They are not a tourist spectacle; they are a living community maintaining distinct language, dress, and cultural practices. Respectful engagement, buying directly from Raramuri artisans selling pine needle baskets and textiles in Creel or El Divisadero, is appropriate. Uninvited entry to villages or photography without permission is not.

Practicalities

Altitude at Creel and El Divisadero affects some visitors: headaches and reduced energy are common for the first day. Ascent from Batopilas back to Creel can be uncomfortable. Carry water, especially in the canyon bottom where temperatures in summer (June-August) regularly exceed 40 degrees Celsius at lower altitudes.

Chihuahua city is the eastern gateway, with direct bus and flight connections from Mexico City and other Mexican cities. Los Mochis on the Pacific side connects to Mazatlan and Culiacan. November through February is the best weather window: cool but not freezing at altitude, mild at the canyon bottom, and the dry season minimises road complications.

The Cascadas de Basaseachi, Mexico’s second-highest waterfall at 246 metres, is a 2-hour drive north of Creel and worth the detour for anyone with a vehicle. The falls run strongest in summer but are impressive year-round.