Danang to Hue Vietnam
The Expressway Tunnel Bypasses One of Southeast Asia’s Better Drives
Most bus and train passengers travelling between Danang and Hue take the modern expressway tunnel that cuts through the mountain and deposits them in the next city without ceremony. This is efficient and devoid of the reason to make the trip. The Hai Van Pass road, which climbs over a 496-metre coastal mountain before dropping to the Lang Co Lagoon, is the alternative: 30 kilometres of hairpin turns with simultaneous views of the South China Sea on one side and the lagoon on the other, passing French-built military bunkers at the summit that all subsequent military occupiers found too strategically useful to demolish.
Rent a motorbike in Danang (around VND 150,000-200,000 per day for an automatic), hire a xe om for a one-way trip, or book a car with driver. The drive from Danang to the pass summit takes about 40 minutes. Stop at the fortifications at the top for the views; they extend across both sides simultaneously on clear mornings.
Danang
Danang is the most liveable major city in Vietnam by most assessments, which makes it popular with domestic Vietnamese tourists and expats but less atmospheric for foreign visitors looking for old Vietnam. My Khe Beach is long and well-maintained, fully resort-developed for the whole stretch. Better beaches are 30 minutes south around Hoi An.
The Dragon Bridge (Cau Rong) is worth seeing: a 666-metre span shaped as a dragon that breathes actual fire and water on Saturday and Sunday evenings at 21:00. The event draws crowds but the engineering spectacle is genuinely odd and impressive.
Mi Quang is Danang’s signature food and it is significantly better than its export reputation suggests. Wide rice noodles in a small amount of turmeric-yellow broth, topped with grilled pork, shrimp, peanuts, sesame crackers, and fresh herbs. It is richer and more complex than northern pho and virtually unknown outside central Vietnam. Any small restaurant with handwritten signs in the Hai Chau or Thanh Khe districts will be making it correctly. A bowl costs around VND 30,000-40,000.
Banh mi Da Nang with charcoal-grilled pork belly from the stalls near Han Market, open from 06:00, is the morning alternative.
Lang Co
The fishing village of Lang Co sits on a sandspit between the lagoon and the sea, about 20 kilometres north of the pass. It has a few guesthouses and seafood restaurants, and a beach that is quiet in a way My Khe is not. Restaurant Thanh Van on the main road through the village does fresh crab and squid cooked simply and properly. This is a legitimate lunch stop rather than a tourist performance.
Hue
Hue was the imperial capital of Vietnam from 1802 to 1945 under the Nguyen dynasty, and the city was badly damaged in the Tet Offensive of 1968 – some sections of the Citadel are still being restored, which means your visit happens against a backdrop of active historical reconstruction rather than finished heritage presentation. The Citadel covers 10 square kilometres; the Imperial Enclosure within it has palaces, temples, and courtyards in varying states of completeness. Entry is 200,000 VND.
The Nguyen emperors’ tombs are scattered in the hills south of the city along the Perfume River, each built to the individual emperor’s specification during his own lifetime. Minh Mang’s tomb (1840) is the most architecturally formal and symmetrical; Tu Duc’s tomb (1864) is the most personal and poignant – Tu Duc was childless and had 104 wives, and the garden around his tomb reflects his own design rather than a committee’s imperial formula. Hire a bicycle (VND 50,000 per day from any guesthouse) or xe om for the 5-7 kilometre journey from the centre.
Hue’s food is the most complex in Vietnam: bun bo Hue (beef noodle soup significantly spicier and richer than northern pho, flavoured with lemongrass and chilli), banh khoai (small crispy pancakes with pork and shrimp), and com hen (rice with tiny Perfume River mussels and 15 condiment components). Quan Ba Tuyet on Nguyen Binh Khiem Street is a local institution for bun bo Hue, opening from early morning and crowded by 07:30.
Getting Between the Cities
Train: 2.5-3 hours, VND 70,000-120,000 depending on class, scenic along the coast between Danang and the pass. The SE6 and SE8 are the most reliable services. Bus: 2 hours on the expressway but misses the coast. Motorbike via the Hai Van Pass: the best option if you have time, appropriate weather, and are comfortable on Vietnamese roads.