Dead Sea
The Dead Sea: Visiting a Body of Water That Is Disappearing
The Dead Sea is losing about 1.2 metres of depth every year. Since the 1960s its surface has dropped approximately 45 metres and its area has shrunk by a third – from around 950 square kilometres to roughly 620-670 square kilometres today. The primary cause is agricultural and industrial diversion of the Jordan River, which historically delivered 1.2 to 1.3 billion cubic metres of water annually to the lake and now contributes around 100 million cubic metres. Potash and bromine extraction operations on both the Israeli and Jordanian shores accelerate the loss further by pumping brine into vast evaporation ponds.
The sinkholes that have opened along the Israeli shoreline as freshwater aquifers meet the receding salt lake have forced the closure of several public beaches – some for more than five years. On the Jordanian side, the water’s edge is now significantly further from the hotel buildings than it was a decade ago; many resorts use shuttle vehicles to carry guests the additional distance to the shore.
This is not a reason to avoid the Dead Sea. The floating experience still works: at around 34% salinity, roughly ten times that of typical seawater, the water supports human body weight effortlessly and is unlike anything achievable in an ordinary pool or sea. The mineral mud still has the same properties. The landscape is still extraordinary. But visiting now, while it is still this version of itself, is the better argument for going than waiting.
Which Side: Israel or Jordan
The Dead Sea borders Israel and the West Bank to the west and Jordan to the east. Most visitors choose one side, though crossing via the King Hussein (Allenby) Bridge allows a combined visit (budget half a day for the crossing and check current visa rules before planning this, as the bridge has restrictive operating hours and periodic disruptions).
Israel side (Ein Bokek): More established beach infrastructure, several free public beaches alongside the resort hotels, and proximity to Masada and Ein Gedi. The resort strip at Ein Bokek is functional and well-connected to the Israeli road network. A sinkhole-related closure of some beach sections has affected public access; check current conditions before making specific plans.
Jordan side (Sweimeh): The resort hotels on the Jordanian shore are around 55 kilometres from Amman. The Dead Sea Panoramic Complex sits on the cliff above and offers views over the lake regardless of the water level below. The Jordanian side is better positioned for day trips to Wadi Mujib and for visitors on a Petra-Amman circuit. The resort experience here is generally more enclosed and spa-focused than the Israeli public beach model.
What to Do
Float: The standard experience and the one worth prioritising. Enter the water slowly (the bottom is rocky and salt-encrusted), lean back, and let the salinity do the rest. The sensation of reading a book or newspaper while apparently sitting on the surface is exactly as strange as it sounds. Keep the water out of your eyes and mouth entirely – it is intensely painful if either happens. Rinse off in a freshwater shower immediately after leaving the water; the salt crystallises quickly on skin and clothing.
Mud treatments: The mineral-rich mud from the lake’s floor and shoreline is available at most beaches and resort spa facilities. Application is straightforward – cover exposed skin, let it dry in the sun for 15-20 minutes, rinse. The mineral content (magnesium, potassium, calcium, bromide) is cited by the cosmetics industry as having therapeutic properties for skin conditions including psoriasis. The clinical evidence is mixed but the immediate effect on skin texture is real.
Masada (Israel side): A flat-topped mesa above the western shore, Masada is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most visited sites in Israel. The plateau holds the remains of Herod’s first-century BC fortresses and palace complexes. The Romans besieged the Jewish Sicarii rebels here in 73 AD; the mass suicide that followed became embedded in Israeli national consciousness as an emblem of resistance. The cable car runs from the base to the summit; the Snake Path is a 1.5-kilometre trail for those who prefer to hike. Go early to avoid the worst heat.
Ein Gedi Nature Reserve (Israel side): A freshwater oasis in the desert, Ein Gedi contains spring-fed streams, waterfalls, and wildlife including ibex and hyrax. The David Stream trail leads to David Waterfall (about a 30-minute walk); the Ein Gedi Spring trail is longer and reaches a higher set of pools. Swimming is permitted in the lower pools. This is genuinely green and shaded in a landscape that otherwise has none.
Wadi Mujib (Jordan side): The Wadi Mujib Biosphere Reserve’s slot canyons are a full contrast to the Dead Sea itself. The Siq Trail follows a narrow gorge with wading through water in sections; life vests are provided and required. Lockers are available at the entrance. The trail runs from approximately April to October (water levels outside that window make it inaccessible or unsafe). Not suitable for young children; check minimum age requirements. This is the most physically active option in the area and worth half a day if the season is right.
Where to Stay
Jordan side:
The cluster of resorts at Sweimeh includes the Kempinski Hotel Ishtar Dead Sea, Marriott Resort and Spa, and the Hilton Dead Sea Resort. These are international five-star properties priced accordingly (USD 150-400+ per night depending on season). Most include beach access, spa facilities, and multiple pools. If mud and floating are the goal, staying at a resort with its own beach section is more comfortable than day-tripping to a public access point.
Mid-range options include the Ramada Resort and Dead Sea Spa Hotel. Both are significantly cheaper than the big five-star properties and still provide beach access.
Israel side:
The Ein Bokek hotel strip includes properties from the Isrotel Dead Sea and Royal Rimonim to mid-range options. The public beach access here is an advantage over Jordan’s resort-only model for visitors on a tighter budget – you can stay somewhere cheaper and walk to the beach.
Getting There
From Amman (Jordan): The Dead Sea shore at Sweimeh is around 55 kilometres by road, taking about an hour. Taxis and organised day trips are available from Amman; renting a car gives more flexibility. The Dead Sea Highway (Road 65) runs the length of the Jordanian shore.
From Jerusalem (Israel): About 30-45 minutes by car to Ein Bokek. No direct public transport connects Jerusalem to the Dead Sea resorts. Tour buses from Jerusalem are available and convenient if not renting a car.
Practical Tips
Sun protection: The Dead Sea sits at approximately 430 metres below sea level, and the extra atmospheric column filters some UV, but the reflection from both water and salt flats multiplies exposure significantly. Sunburn happens faster than expected. Apply sunscreen before entering the water, and reapply after towelling off.
Timing: May through September is extremely hot (38-45°C). October through April is more manageable for outdoor activity. March and April are the most pleasant months for combining water time with hiking at Masada or Ein Gedi.
What to wear: Wear an old swimsuit. The salt and minerals stain fabric and corrode metal clasps. Footwear with grip is essential for entering and exiting the water on the rocky, slippery shore.
How long to stay: A single night is enough if the Dead Sea is a stop on a broader Jordanian or Israeli itinerary. Two nights allows the spa experience without rushing. More than two nights risks the Dead Sea becoming repetitive – there are not as many different activities here as at most destinations.
Go while the water level still makes the floating experience straightforward. The decline is measurable and the trajectory is not encouraging.