Dubrovnik

July 21, 2024

Stepping Back in Time: The Complete Guide to Dubrovnik

Seen from the sea, Dubrovnik looks less like a city than an argument: an almost impossibly complete medieval walled town dropped onto a peninsula of white limestone, ringed by two kilometres of ramparts that step and plunge along the cliffs, and surrounded by water in every shade of blue that the Adriatic knows how to make. Lord Byron called it the Pearl of the Adriatic; George Bernard Shaw, more directly, said that “those who seek paradise on earth should come to Dubrovnik”. Both were right. What they perhaps did not emphasise is that Dubrovnik is also a living city: a harbour where fishing boats still unload, a university town, the cultural capital of southern Croatia, and a community that has survived Venetian domination, Napoleonic annexation, Austrian rule, Yugoslav federation, a siege in 1991 that damaged two-thirds of the Old Town’s buildings, and, most recently, its reinvention as Westeros and Canto Bight for millions of film and television fans.

This guide is for travellers who want the whole Dubrovnik: the Game of Thrones photographs and the Republic of Ragusa history, the beaches and the cathedral crypts, the tourist-thick noon hours and the magical small hours when the walls are yours alone. We cover sights, neighbourhoods, food, accommodation strategy, logistics, and the day trips that reveal why Dalmatia deserves more than a 48-hour stop.

A Short History Worth Knowing

Dubrovnik was founded in the 7th century as Ragusa, a refuge on a rocky islet that was later joined to the mainland. By the 14th century the Republic of Ragusa was a formidable maritime trading power, second only to Venice in the Adriatic, balancing Venetian, Ottoman, and Habsburg pressures through skilful diplomacy and an ironclad commitment to liberty; “Libertas” was minted onto its coins and carved over its gates. The 1667 earthquake devastated the city, which rebuilt in the restrained Baroque style you see today. The Republic’s 1,000-year run ended when Napoleon abolished it in 1808. During the 1991-95 wars for Yugoslav succession, Yugoslav forces besieged Dubrovnik for seven months and shelled the Old Town more than 650 times; the precise map of damage is displayed on a memorial board at the Pile Gate. The careful reconstruction you see is the work of master craftsmen using traditional materials and techniques.

The Essential Sights

City Walls. The nearly two-kilometre ring of fortifications, up to 25 metres high and six metres thick, completed in their present form in the 16th century. Walking the full circuit takes about 90 minutes and offers the best views of the red-tiled roofs, the sea, and Lokrum Island. Go at opening (usually 8am in summer) or in the last two hours before closing to dodge heat and crowds. Wear real shoes; bring water, sunscreen, and a hat.

Stradun (Placa). The limestone-paved main street, polished mirror-smooth by six centuries of feet. Anchored by Onofrio’s Large Fountain and the Pile Gate at one end and the Sponza Palace and Clock Tower at the other.

Rector’s Palace. The Gothic-Renaissance seat of the elected Rector, who ruled for only one month at a time. A museum of the Republic’s culture and government.

Sponza Palace. Beautifully preserved 16th-century customs house, now a library. Its loggia hosts the deeply moving Memorial Room of the Dubrovnik Defenders of 1991.

Cathedral of the Assumption. Rebuilt after the 1667 earthquake. The treasury holds a remarkable reliquary of the skull and arm of Saint Blaise, Dubrovnik’s patron, and a painting attributed to Titian.

Church of Saint Blaise. The 18th-century baroque patron-saint church on Luža Square, facing Orlando’s Column.

Franciscan Monastery and the Old Pharmacy. Dating from 1317, the third-oldest working pharmacy in Europe, with original mortars, stills, and 15,000-volume library. The cloister is a shaded Romanesque-Gothic refuge.

Dominican Monastery. A quieter, equally beautiful complex in the east of the Old Town, with a rich art collection.

Old Port and the Revelin Fortress. The medieval harbour, still working, and the great fortress that now houses a nightclub and summer festival performances.

Lovrijenac Fortress. “Dubrovnik’s Gibraltar”, on a 37-metre crag outside the Pile Gate. Fans will recognise it as the Red Keep from Game of Thrones. Climb for the best sunset view back across to the walled city.

Mount Srđ Cable Car. The cable car from just above the Old Town climbs in four minutes to 412 metres for panoramic views across the city, the Elaphiti islands, and, on clear days, the Italian coast. The hilltop also houses the sombre Homeland War museum in the restored Napoleonic fort.

Lokrum Island. A 15-minute ferry from the Old Port. Peacocks, a ruined Benedictine monastery (founded 1023), a botanical garden, and a small salt lake known as the Dead Sea (Mrtvo more). The Iron Throne from the TV series is on display in the monastery.

War Photo Limited. A small, rigorous gallery of war photography with a focus on the 1990s Yugoslav wars.

Neighbourhoods and Beyond the Walls

The Old Town (Stari Grad). Home to most of the sights and the principal luxury hotels inside converted palaces. Loud in the day, magical after 10pm when cruise passengers have sailed.

Ploče. Immediately east of the walls, with Banje Beach and several of Dubrovnik’s premium hotels.

Pile. Immediately west, with Lovrijenac and the ferry and bus terminals.

Lapad. A peninsula a short bus ride from the centre, with hotels, a pedestrian street, and Dubrovnik’s best family beaches around Sunset Beach and Lapad Bay.

Gruž. The working harbour, with the ferry port for the islands, the Saturday farmers’ market, and some of the city’s best casual restaurants.

Cavtat. A small, pretty Baroque town 18 km south, with a palm-lined waterfront, a short ferry ride or taxi from the airport.

Eating in Dubrovnik

Dalmatian cuisine is a Mediterranean-Adriatic cousin to Italian and Greek: olive oil, grilled fish, wild herbs, lamb, capers, and Dalmatian wines.

Black risotto (crni rižot). Rice cooked with cuttlefish and its ink, a local classic.
Buzara. Prawns, shrimp, or mussels in a white wine, garlic, and parsley broth.
Pašticada. Slow-braised beef in red wine and prunes with gnocchi, the celebration dish.
Peka. Meat or octopus baked slowly under an iron bell-shaped lid covered in hot embers; order 24 hours ahead.
Grilled fish. Sea bass (brancin), sea bream (orada), and whole dentex, priced by the kilo and shared.
Istrian and Dalmatian hams (pršut) and cheeses (Pag cheese).
Ston oysters. From the Mali Ston bay north of Dubrovnik, eaten with lemon and a glass of local Pošip white wine.
Green menestra and pasticada. Peasant-hearty Republic of Ragusa fare, slowly returning to fashion.
Rozata. Dubrovnik’s rose-water crème caramel.
Wines. Plavac Mali is the principal red grape of the Pelješac peninsula (Dingač and Postup are the premium sites); Pošip and Grk are the standout whites from Korčula. Do not miss a glass of travarica or a bitter Maraschino liqueur.
Coffee culture. Like all Croatians, people here take coffee slowly on cafe terraces.

Where to Stay

Inside the Old Town. Atmospheric palazzo hotels and apartments, expensive, occasionally noisy, no cars allowed at the gate so porters help with luggage.
Ploče. Cliff-top hotels with pool decks over the sea and walking access to the Old Town.
Pile. Convenient access with better value than the Ploče cliff hotels.
Lapad. Family beaches, resort hotels, and better prices. Ten to fifteen minutes by bus to the Old Town.
Gruž. For travellers who want a locals’ neighbourhood and good island ferry access.

Dubrovnik hotels are heavily concentrated at the upper end of the market; book months ahead for summer. Aparthotels and private apartments are plentiful; choose ones with air conditioning.

Activities and Experiences

Sea kayaking around the walls and out to Lokrum. Guided tours run from Pile Beach twice a day.
Sunset stand-up paddleboarding. Quieter in the evening and a superb photo opportunity.
Sailing day trips to the Elaphiti Islands. Koločep, Lopud, Šipan: swimming, lunch, and old village wandering.
Game of Thrones walking tour. Many companies run them; the best combine real history with filming locations.
Ston. An hour and a half up the coast, famed for its 5 km of 14th-century walls (the second-longest in the world after the Great Wall of China), its salt pans (still operating from Roman times), and its oysters.
Mljet National Park. A forested island with two salt-water lakes and a medieval monastery on an island in the lake. Ferry from Dubrovnik.
Korčula. Marco Polo’s legendary birthplace; a beautifully walled small town two hours away by fast ferry or catamaran.
Montenegro and Kotor. A feasible day trip by bus or car across the border to the fjord-like Bay of Kotor.
Bosnia and Herzegovina. Mostar and its Ottoman bridge are a long but rewarding day trip.

Practical Tips

When to visit. May, June, September, and early October are ideal. July and August are hot (often 32°C+) and very crowded; cruise ships can put 10,000 passengers into the Old Town on a summer day. Winter is quieter, mild, and often sunny, with many restaurants closed.
Airport. Čilipi, 20 km south of the city. Platanus shuttle buses run to Pile and the main bus terminal in Gruž, taking 35-45 minutes. Taxis are around 40-45 euros.
Transport. The Old Town is pedestrian-only. City buses are cheap and frequent (buy a two-journey ticket at kiosks; fares are slightly more on board). Walking between the Old Town and Ploče or Pile is pleasant.
Currency. Euro since 2023.
Language. Croatian; English is universally spoken in tourist areas. “Dobar dan” (good day), “hvala” (thank you), “molim” (please).
Cruise days. Check the cruise-ship schedule and plan your Old Town wandering for the afternoons and evenings when visiting ships have usually departed.
Safety. Very safe. Watch for twisted ankles on polished limestone and steep steps; comfortable rubber-soled shoes are essential.
Water. Tap water is excellent.
Swimming. Banje Beach has a classic Old Town view. Sveti Jakov is quieter and reached by steps down the cliff. Šulić Beach is just outside the Pile Gate. Lapad Bay is the calmest for families. Lokrum has rocky bathing spots and a nudist area on the east side.
Tickets. A combined Dubrovnik Card pays for itself if you plan to see the walls, the Rector’s Palace, and several other museums.

A Sample Three-Day Route

Day 1. Walls at opening (book online). Coffee on Stradun. Rector’s Palace and Sponza. Lunch of black risotto. Afternoon at the Dominican and Franciscan monasteries and the Cathedral. Late-afternoon ferry to Lokrum. Dinner in a terrace restaurant overlooking the Old Port.

Day 2. Sea kayak tour in the morning around the walls and to Lokrum. Banje Beach swim. Cable car up Mount Srđ for sunset. Dinner in Ploče.

Day 3. Day trip to Ston and the Pelješac peninsula for oysters, salt pans, and a wine tasting; or sailing to the Elaphiti Islands. Evening drinks at Buža Bar on the cliff outside the Old Town walls.

Unexpected Experiences

A night walk along Stradun at midnight when the stones are empty and lit gold.
An afternoon swim at the tiny Šulić beach with the walls rising above.
The moving memorial room at the Sponza Palace, with the photographs of those who died defending the city in 1991-92.
A glass of Pošip at sunset on the Minčeta bastion.
The Saturday farmers’ market in Gruž, with wild greens, honey, and home-made pršut.
A summer concert in the Revelin Fortress during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival (July-August).

Final Thoughts

Dubrovnik is small. You can walk the circuit of its walls in an hour and a half and pass the entire Old Town in a morning. But the city rewards those who stay a second or third day, because the best version of Dubrovnik is not the midday bucket-list one but the evening one, when the tour groups have gone, the limestone is still warm, and the lights from the cafés on Prijeko street bounce off the Stradun like candles in a long corridor. Arrive with the right rhythm, eat and swim often, and give yourself time for at least one island. The Pearl of the Adriatic is still worth the journey.