Easter Island

Easter Island (Rapa Nui): Remote, Expensive, and Genuinely Worth It

Rapa Nui is one of the most isolated inhabited islands on earth. The nearest continental landmass is about 3,700km to the east; the nearest inhabited island, Pitcairn, is 2,000km away. The moai statues — 900 of them, spread across 163 square kilometres — were carved by a Polynesian civilisation at its peak and then largely toppled during a period of internal conflict. Most of what you see today has been restored. Understanding that context matters.

The island is a Chilean territory, served by a single airport (Mataveri, on the south-western edge of Hanga Roa, the only town). LATAM flies from Santiago — a five-hour flight — and there is one seasonal flight from Papeete. Book early and expect to pay a premium.

What to See

Rano Raraku is the volcanic quarry where the moai were carved. Nearly 400 statues remain here, most partially buried, some fully upright, others horizontal where they fell. Walking through this quarry feels more like a sculpture garden than an archaeological site. Allow at least two hours.

Ahu Tongariki is the most dramatic ceremonial platform on the island: fifteen moai lined up facing inland, restored in the 1990s after being knocked down and then swept further inland by a 1960 tsunami. It faces east, which means the sunrise here — with the moai in silhouette against a brightening sky — is one of those photographs that every visitor to Rapa Nui has taken. It’s still worth doing.

Anakena is the island’s main beach, a crescent of white sand with a palm grove and a restored ahu with moai at one end. It’s the pleasantest spot on the island for a few hours of non-archaeological activity.

Orongo is a ceremonial village perched on the rim of the Rano Kau volcanic crater, overlooking three small islets. It was the site of the Birdman cult competition — young men would climb down the cliffs, swim to the islets, retrieve the first sooty tern egg of the season, and swim back. The winner’s clan gained political power for a year. The petroglyphs here are worth a close look.

Getting Around

Rent a car, a scooter, or a jeep from one of the agencies in Hanga Roa. The island is small enough to drive in half a day, but you’ll want more time to actually stop and walk around each site. Some people hire horses for a more traditional approach to the landscape. There are also guided tours, but honestly, the island is so compact that a map and a rental vehicle is sufficient.

Where to Eat and Stay

Hanga Roa has a decent range of restaurants, almost all serving fresh tuna and other Pacific fish. La Kaleta near the port has good seafood at reasonable prices. Expect to pay significantly more than mainland Chile for everything — supply logistics to the island are complicated.

Accommodation ranges from basic guesthouses (around 50,000–80,000 CLP per night) to mid-range hotels. Hotel Explora Rapa Nui is the premium option, genuinely beautiful but expensive. Book anywhere well in advance during December to February and for the Tapati festival (early February).

Bring cash. Some places accept cards, but don’t rely on it. There are ATMs in Hanga Roa, though they run out of money periodically.