Edinburgh Castle
Edinburgh Castle: Worth the Price, Worth the Queue
Edinburgh Castle sits on Castle Rock, a volcanic plug that rises 130 metres above the city. The rock has been fortified in some form since at least the 12th century, and possibly since the Iron Age. The fortress you see now is partly medieval (St Margaret’s Chapel dates to around 1130 AD and is the oldest surviving building in Edinburgh), partly 16th and 17th century, and partly Victorian.
It is one of the most visited paid attractions in Scotland and, unlike many similarly popular sites, it largely justifies the attention.
Admission and What’s Included
Tickets cost around 21.50 GBP for adults (2024 pricing; check Historic Environment Scotland for current rates). This includes entry to all buildings and exhibitions within the castle. Online booking is recommended and gives you a 30-minute arrival window. Queues at the gate in summer, particularly on weekends, can run to 45 minutes.
The castle is open year-round except 25-26 December and 1 January. During the Edinburgh Festival in August, afternoon and evening crowds are extremely heavy; morning visits before 10:30 are substantially more pleasant.
The Crown Jewels and Stone of Destiny
The Scottish Crown Jewels (Honours of Scotland) are the oldest surviving crown jewels in Britain, comprising the crown, sceptre, and sword of state used at Scottish coronations from 1543. They are displayed in the Crown Room on the castle’s upper level, alongside the Stone of Destiny (also called the Stone of Scone), a sandstone block used in Scottish royal inaugurations before its seizure by Edward I of England in 1296. The stone was returned to Scotland in 1996 and currently sits in Edinburgh between coronations; it was temporarily loaned to Westminster Abbey for the coronation of Charles III in 2023.
The queues for the Crown Room are the longest in the castle. Visit it early (within the first 30 minutes of arriving) or last before closing.
St Margaret’s Chapel
This tiny Romanesque building at the castle’s highest point predates most of the surrounding fortress by five or six centuries. It was built by David I of Scotland in memory of his mother, Queen Margaret, who was canonised in 1250. The interior is extremely small, holding around 20 people, with five narrow stained glass windows added in the 1920s. It is still used for weddings.
Most visitors walk past it quickly. It deserves more time. Standing in a Romanesque chapel from 1130 AD that has survived sieges, artillery bombardment, and eight centuries of occupation is an experience that most medieval structures cannot offer.
Mons Meg
Mons Meg is a siege cannon manufactured in 1449 and weighing over 6 tonnes. It fired stone balls up to 50 cm in diameter and was used at the siege of Threave Castle in 1455. It sits on the ramparts pointing west and is one of the better-preserved medieval artillery pieces anywhere in Europe. A plaque explains its history without embellishment.
The One O’Clock Gun
The One O’Clock Gun fires every day except Sunday at 13:00 from the Half Moon Battery. The tradition began in 1861 as a time signal for ships in the Firth of Forth. It is now primarily theatrical but very loud. Visitors who are not expecting it find it startling. Those who position themselves near the battery at 12:55 get the full effect and a view across to Arthur’s Seat and the Firth.
The National War Museum of Scotland
Inside the castle, the National War Museum covers Scottish military history from the 17th century to the present with better contextualisation than most military museums achieve. The section on the First World War, including personal letters and equipment from soldiers, is particularly strong. Admission is included with castle entry.
Around the Castle
The Royal Mile runs directly east from the Esplanade through the Old Town to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. Walking it in either direction takes about 20 minutes. The Grassmarket, a former cattle market and execution ground below the castle’s southern walls, has a cluster of pubs and independent shops. Greyfriars Kirkyard, 5 minutes from the Grassmarket, is worth visiting: the 17th-century churchyard has elaborate memorial sculpture and is the alleged inspiration for Greyfriars Bobby.
The Witchery by the Castle, at the top of the Royal Mile, is Edinburgh’s most atmospheric restaurant: dark wood, candlelight, and theatrical Scottish cooking in a 16th-century building. Expensive for dinner, considerably more manageable for a set lunch. Book ahead.
For a better-value meal, the Mosque Kitchen on Nicolson Street, 15 minutes south by foot, serves the best curry in Edinburgh at roughly a quarter of the Witchery’s prices, at outdoor tables regardless of the weather, to queues that prove its reputation.