Edinburgh Castle

Edinburgh Castle: Worth the Price, Worth the Queue

Edinburgh Castle sits on Castle Rock, a volcanic plug that rises 130 metres above the city. The rock has been fortified since at least the 12th century and possibly since the Iron Age – humans found an easily defended prominence with commanding views and returned to it for millennia. The fortress you see today mixes periods: St Margaret’s Chapel dates to around 1130 AD and is the oldest surviving building in Edinburgh; much of the surrounding structure is 16th and 17th century; the Victorian barracks are newer additions. The variety of periods and functions is part of what makes the visit interesting rather than a single-note monument.

It is one of the most visited paid attractions in Scotland, and unlike many similarly popular sites, it largely justifies the attention.

What’s Worth Your Time

Admission costs around GBP 21.50 for adults (check Historic Environment Scotland for current rates; prices have been rising). This covers all buildings and exhibitions. Book online for a 30-minute arrival window and skip the queues, which in summer can run 45 minutes.

The Crown Room holds the Scottish Crown Jewels (Honours of Scotland) – the crown, sceptre, and sword of state used at Scottish coronations since 1543, making them the oldest surviving crown jewels in Britain. Next to them sits the Stone of Destiny, the sandstone block used in Scottish royal inaugurations that Edward I of England seized in 1296 as a trophy of conquest. It was kept in Westminster Abbey for 700 years, returned to Scotland in 1996, temporarily loaned back to Westminster Abbey for the coronation of Charles III in 2023, and currently sits in Edinburgh again. The Stone is not visually dramatic, but the history around it is. Visit the Crown Room early in your visit or in the last 30 minutes before closing; the queue inside is the longest in the castle.

St Margaret’s Chapel, at the castle’s highest point, is a tiny Romanesque building from around 1130 AD that has survived sieges, artillery bombardments, and eight centuries of occupation. It seats about 20 people and is still used for weddings. Most visitors walk past quickly. It deserves more time. Standing in a structure from 1130 that has been in continuous use is a different experience from standing in a ruin.

Mons Meg, the 1449 siege cannon on the ramparts, weighs over 6 tonnes and fired stone balls up to 50 centimetres in diameter. It was used at the siege of Threave Castle in 1455 – a functional siege weapon in the actual medieval sieges for which castles were built. One of the better-preserved pieces of medieval artillery in Europe.

The One O’Clock Gun fires from the Half Moon Battery every day except Sunday at 1pm. The tradition began in 1861 as a time signal for ships in the Firth of Forth, which could set their chronometers by it. It is now primarily theatrical and very loud. Position yourself near the battery at 12:55 for the full effect and a view across to Arthur’s Seat.

The National War Museum of Scotland within the castle covers Scottish military history from the 17th century to the present with better contextualisation than most military museums achieve. The First World War section, with personal letters and equipment from soldiers, is particularly strong. Included with castle admission.

Around the Castle

The Royal Mile runs east from the Esplanade through the Old Town to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. Walking it takes 20 minutes. The Grassmarket below the castle’s southern walls has pubs and independent shops in a former cattle market and execution ground. For dinner with atmosphere, the Witchery by the Castle is Edinburgh’s most theatrical restaurant – expensive but with a set lunch that is considerably more reasonable. For excellent curry at Edinburgh’s best value, the Mosque Kitchen on Nicolson Street, 15 minutes south by foot, serves from outdoor tables year-round to queues that prove the point.