Eiger

The Eiger: The North Face You Can Watch from a Cafe

The Eiger is 3,967 metres tall and sits in the Bernese Oberland of Switzerland between Grindelwald and Kleine Scheidegg. The north face, which rises 1,800 metres from the base to the summit, spent the years 1935 to 1938 as the site of what was called the “death climb” – a series of attempts during which four parties died before Anderl Heckmair and his team completed the first ascent in 1938. The north face has been climbed thousands of times since, including a current speed record under 2 hours 47 minutes, and it remains serious enough that rescue operations on it make the news several times each summer.

None of this requires you to climb anything. The entire north face is visible from Kleine Scheidegg at the base, where the mountain railway to Jungfraujoch departs, and there are cafe tables with a direct view of the wall. The combination of extreme technical difficulty and comfortable observation distance is an Eiger peculiarity that made it famous in the era of post-war mountaineering journalism and has not changed.

Grindelwald as Base

Grindelwald (1,034 metres elevation) is the main village below the Eiger, accessible by train from Interlaken Ost in 35 minutes. The village functions as a ski resort in winter and a hiking destination in summer. Hotels, restaurants, equipment rental, and the necessary infrastructure are all available. Prices are Swiss: a mid-range hotel double room runs CHF 150-250 per night; a basic sit-down lunch is CHF 25-35.

The First gondola from Grindelwald ascends to 2,168 metres in about 25 minutes. The First Cliff Walk is a series of suspended walkways and rope bridges attached to the cliff face at First, with direct views of the Eiger’s north face across the valley and the Wetterhorn to the east. The walk itself is about 300 metres of path and takes 30 minutes; the main draws are the suspension bridge section and the viewing platform that extends over the cliff edge. Open from late May through October, weather permitting; cable car ticket costs CHF 49 return for adults.

Jungfraujoch

The Jungfraujoch railway station at 3,454 metres is Europe’s highest railway station, a fact the Swiss tourist industry has been citing since the line opened in 1912. The train journey from Grindelwald takes about 2 hours with a change at Kleine Scheidegg, passing through a tunnel bored inside the Eiger and the Monch with a window lookout midway through at the Eismeer station (Ice Sea) giving views of the glacier. The summit complex contains a restaurant, an ice palace carved inside the glacier, and observation decks with views toward the Aletsch Glacier and across to France on clear days.

The summit is cold year-round (typical summer temperature around -2 to 5 degrees Celsius) and altitude effects are felt by some visitors at 3,454 metres. The return train ticket from Grindelwald costs CHF 225 at full price; savings of 25% are available with a Swiss Travel Pass. The view from the top on a clear day is extensive. The view on a cloudy day is of clouds from above, which is actually interesting in a different way.

Hiking Options

The trail from Grindelwald to Kleine Scheidegg via the Eigergletscher path runs directly below the north face for part of its length and takes 3-4 hours. It is a moderate walk (around 800 metres elevation gain) with continuous views of the Eiger face throughout. Most hikers take the train up to Kleine Scheidegg first and walk down (2-2.5 hours), which reverses the elevation gain and keeps the face in view throughout.

The Bachalpsee lake, a 90-minute walk from First station, sits at 2,265 metres with reflections of the Eiger, Mettenberg, and Wellhorn when conditions are calm. The trail is well-marked and relatively easy from the First gondola station.

Weather and When to Go

The Bernese Oberland has its own weather system. Clear mornings often turn to cloud by early afternoon in summer. Checking the mountain weather forecast (meteo.ch) the evening before and planning to be at altitude before noon gives the best chance of clear views. The north face is most dramatic in morning light.

July and August are the busiest months; September and early October have fewer visitors, often better weather stability, and the possibility of early snow on the summits that makes the landscape more dramatic. The gondolas and railway run year-round with slightly reduced schedules in spring and autumn.