Eisriesenwelt

Eisriesenwelt: The World’s Largest Ice Cave, in Austria’s Salt Mountains

Eisriesenwelt (literally “World of Ice Giants”) is a 42-kilometre-long system of natural caverns in the Tennengebirge massif above the town of Werfen in the Salzburg region of Austria. About one kilometre of the system is open to visitors, and that kilometre contains the largest natural ice formations accessible to tourists anywhere on earth. Frozen waterfalls reaching 20-30 metres in height, ice walls and domes lit by carbide lamps (not electric lighting, which would alter the temperature), and cathedral-like chambers of permanent ice at -2 to 0 degrees Celsius.

The caves were known locally for centuries but were not explored scientifically until the 1870s. They opened to tourist visits in 1920 and now receive around 200,000 visitors annually, making them one of Austria’s most visited natural sites that most international tourists know nothing about.

Getting There

Werfen is 45 kilometres south of Salzburg by train (about 40 minutes on the Salzburg-Villach line; trains run hourly). The cave system is above Werfen at 1,641 metres; from the train station in Werfen, a bus shuttle runs to the cable car base station (3 kilometres), and the cable car ascends to near the cave entrance. From the cable car upper station, a 20-minute walk along a marked path through alpine forest reaches the ticket office. The full journey from Salzburg station to the cave entrance takes about 1.5 hours.

Driving is possible; a road runs from Werfen to a large car park below the cable car station.

The Tour

Guided tours only. Tours depart roughly every 75 minutes during opening hours (May to late October; the caves close for winter). The tour lasts about 75 minutes and covers the accessible section of the cave, including the main ice formations.

The guides carry magnesium lamps that create dramatic lighting in the ice chambers, allowing photography that electronic flash does not replicate. Bring a camera with decent low-light capability; the colour in the ice formations (blues, whites, hints of green) is the main subject and it photographs beautifully with the magnesium light.

Temperature: the cave maintains just below zero Celsius throughout. On warm summer days, the contrast with the outside temperature can be 25+ degrees. Bring a warm fleece or jacket regardless of the weather outside – this is not optional. Sturdy shoes with grip are also essential; some sections of the path are uneven and damp.

Advance booking: strong recommendation during July and August, when tours sell out before midday. Book at eisriesenwelt.at. Arrive at Werfen by 9am for a morning tour if you have not pre-booked.

Burg Hohenwerfen

Werfen’s other major attraction sits directly visible from the town, dramatically placed on a rock above the Salzach River: Burg Hohenwerfen, a medieval fortress originally built in 1077. The castle hosts daily falconry demonstrations (one of the more interesting regular events at any Austrian castle) and has a small military history museum. Combined day tickets with Eisriesenwelt offer a modest discount. The castle is 20 minutes’ walk from Werfen station.

Salzburg as a Base

Salzburg is the logical base. The city itself warrants at least two days: Mozart’s birthplace at Getreidegasse 9, the Hohensalzburg fortress (the largest fully preserved medieval castle in Central Europe), the Baroque Dom, the Mirabellgarten with its views to the fortress, the Stiegl brewery, and the September Salzburg Festival (one of the world’s most important classical music festivals, running since 1920, requiring tickets booked months in advance).

From Salzburg, Eisriesenwelt makes an excellent day trip; so does the Hallstatt lake village (90 minutes by car or public transport via Bad Ischl), the Berchtesgaden salt mines across the German border, and the Krimml Waterfalls (the highest in the Alps) further west.

Practical Notes

The Eisriesenwelt tour involves about 700 steps. The path is manageable for most reasonably fit visitors; it is not suitable for buggies or wheelchairs. There is no lift.

The on-site restaurant near the cable car upper station serves basic Austrian fare (Wurst, soup, Jause) at expected tourist prices. A better meal is in Werfen town itself; several guesthouses and restaurants along the main street serve straightforward Austrian food at considerably lower cost.

Card payments work at the cable car and ticket office. No significant tipping custom for the cave tour; the guide is employed by the management rather than tip-dependent.