Eisriesenwelt
The Largest Ice Cave in the World Is Only Open Half the Year
Eisriesenwelt (literally “World of Ice Giants”) is a 42-kilometre-long cave system in the Tennengebirge massif above Werfen in Austria’s Salzburg region. One kilometre of the system is accessible to visitors, and that kilometre contains the largest natural ice formations open to tourism anywhere on earth. Frozen waterfalls 20-30 metres high. Ice domes and halls lit by carbide magnesium lamps – not electric light, which would alter the temperature – in chambers held at -2 to 0 degrees Celsius regardless of the season outside.
The caves were known locally for centuries but not explored scientifically until the 1870s, and they only opened to tourist visits in 1920. Around 200,000 people come annually, making them one of Austria’s most visited natural sites that most international visitors have never heard of.
The caves close for winter. They are open May to late October only. If you’re in Salzburg in April or November, Eisriesenwelt is not available. Plan accordingly.
Getting There
Werfen is 45 kilometres south of Salzburg on the Salzburg-Villach rail line: about 40 minutes by train, running hourly. From Werfen station, a bus shuttle runs to the cable car base (3 kilometres), the cable car ascends toward the cave entrance, and a 20-minute walk through alpine forest connects the cable car upper station to the ticket office. The full journey from Salzburg station to the cave entrance takes about 1.5 hours. Driving is possible; the road from Werfen reaches a large car park below the cable car station.
The Tour
Guided tours only, departing roughly every 75 minutes during opening hours. The tour lasts about 75 minutes and covers the accessible ice section.
Bring a warm fleece or jacket regardless of summer heat outside – the cave holds steady just below zero and the contrast from 30-degree Alpine weather is extreme. Sturdy shoes with grip are necessary; sections of the path are uneven and damp. Serious photography equipment benefits from the magnesium lamp lighting: the colour in the ice (blues, whites, faint greens) photographs beautifully with the warm-toned light the guides carry.
Book online at eisriesenwelt.at during July and August, when tours sell out before midday. Arrive at Werfen by 09:00 for a morning tour if you haven’t pre-booked. The tour involves approximately 700 steps; it is not suitable for buggies or wheelchairs.
Burg Hohenwerfen
Werfen’s other major attraction is visible on the approach from Salzburg: Burg Hohenwerfen, a medieval fortress built in 1077 and dramatically positioned on a rock above the Salzach River. It hosts daily falconry demonstrations, one of the more genuinely interesting regular events at any Austrian castle, and has a small military history museum. Combined tickets with Eisriesenwelt are available. The castle is a 20-minute walk from Werfen station.
Salzburg as a Base
Salzburg warrants at least two days independently. Mozart’s birthplace at Getreidegasse 9. The Hohensalzburg fortress (the largest fully preserved medieval castle in Central Europe, with good city views from the ramparts). The Baroque Dom. The Mirabellgarten. The Stiegl brewery. The Salzburg Festival in late July and August (one of the world’s most important classical music events, running since 1920, requiring tickets months in advance).
From Salzburg: Eisriesenwelt is an obvious day trip. Hallstatt (90 minutes, one of the most picturesque lake villages in Europe but very crowded in summer). The Krimml Waterfalls (the highest in the Alps) further west. The Berchtesgaden salt mines across the German border.
A meal in Werfen town is noticeably cheaper than the on-site restaurant at the cable car upper station, which serves basic Wurst and soup at tourist prices. The guesthouses along Werfen’s main street do straightforward Austrian food at honest cost.