Glacier Bay National Park, Alaska

Glacier Bay: Ice in Retreat

In 1750, Glacier Bay didn’t exist as a bay. It was a single massive glacier 1,500 metres thick that filled what is now a 100km inlet in southeast Alaska. By 1880, when John Muir visited, the ice had retreated 75km and the bay was navigable. By 2025, the retreat has reached 105km from the original terminus, making Glacier Bay one of the most measurable and visually obvious examples of glacial retreat in the world.

The national park covers 13,287 square kilometres of the UNESCO-designated St Elias Park and Reserve, sharing the listing with adjacent parks in Canada. It is accessible only by boat or small plane — no roads reach Gustavus, the small town at the bay’s entrance. This limited access keeps visitor numbers relatively low: about 500,000 per year, most of them on cruise ships that pass through the bay on permit.

Seeing the Glaciers

The bay divides into two main inlets at its upper end: Muir Inlet to the east and the West Arm to the northwest. The active tidewater glaciers — those that reach the sea and calve icebergs — are concentrated in the upper portions. Margerie Glacier, at the head of the West Arm, is the most visited: a 34km glacier with a face about 100 metres high and 1.6km wide that actively calves into the bay. The sound of calving is audible from considerable distance; the actual collapse of ice sections into the water requires patience and attentiveness.

Cruise ships are required to slow to 10 knots or less near the upper bay to reduce noise and wave impact. The captain will typically hold position near the glacier face for 30-60 minutes. For kayakers operating from Bartlett Cove, reaching the upper bay takes several days of paddling; the NPS issues backcountry permits for camping on the beaches.

The Wildlife Argument

The bay’s location in the middle of one of the most productive marine ecosystems on the Pacific coast means the wildlife viewing is the equal of the glacier viewing. Humpback whales feed in the lower bay from June through September; the population is large enough and the bay shallow enough that sightings from the park’s daily tour boat are essentially guaranteed. Dall porpoises, Steller sea lions, harbor seals hauled out on icebergs, and brown bears on the beaches are regular sightings.

Getting There

Gustavus is the entry point. Small planes fly from Juneau (45 minutes) on Alaska Airlines and charter carriers; a daily ferry connection to Juneau runs seasonally. From Gustavus, a shuttle van connects to Bartlett Cove, where the visitor centre and Glacier Bay Lodge are located.

The NPS concessionaire operates a daily tour boat from Bartlett Cove that covers the West Arm and reaches the active glacier faces — this is the most practical option for visitors without multiple days to kayak. The boat carries about 150 passengers and includes a National Park Service ranger for interpretation. Tickets cost around $200 per adult and should be booked well in advance for summer departures.

May through September is the accessible season; the park is reachable in winter by air but the lodge and most services are closed. June and July bring the highest wildlife activity; August and September have more reliable weather.