Gorges Du Verdon

The Verdon Gorge: France’s Best-Kept Natural Secret

The Verdon Gorge (Gorges du Verdon) runs for 25 km through limestone mountains in the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence, southeast France. At its deepest it drops 700 metres. The Verdon River at the bottom runs a mineral turquoise that is genuinely that colour, not a filter or enhancement, produced by the calcium carbonate suspended in the glacial-origin water.

It is one of the most spectacular natural landscapes in Western Europe. It is also, compared to tourist-saturated equivalents in Switzerland or the Dolomites, relatively uncrowded except in July and August.

The Two Rim Roads

The gorge has two perimeter routes. The Corniche Sublime (Route D71) runs the southern rim. The Route des Cretes (D952) runs the north side. Both offer viewpoints looking down into the canyon, and both are worth driving if you have a car and two days.

The Corniche Sublime has the better canyon views: viewpoints like Falaise des Cavaliers and the Balcons de la Mesla look straight down 300-400 metres to the river. The road is narrow, winding, and not suitable for large campervans on some sections. The north road (D952) passes the Point Sublime viewpoint near Rougon, where the entrance to the gorge is most dramatic when seen from above.

The drive from Castellane (eastern end) to Moustiers-Sainte-Marie (western end) using the southern rim is around 80 km and takes 2-3 hours without stops. With stops at every viewpoint it easily fills a day.

Lac de Sainte-Croix

The western end of the gorge opens into Lac de Sainte-Croix, a reservoir created in 1974 when the Verdon was dammed. The lake is 10 km long and the same improbable turquoise as the river. The entrance to the gorge from the lake, where the Verdon flows in through a narrow canyon slot, is best seen from the water.

Pedal boats and electric boats hire from Sainte-Croix-du-Verdon village and from Les Salles-sur-Verdon on the north bank, at around 15-25 euros per hour. Paddling into the gorge entrance takes about 30 minutes from the village dock and gives a completely different view of the canyon walls than any road does. This is the best single activity in the area.

Swimming in the lake is permitted and the water is cold, clear, and excellent in summer.

The Walks Inside the Gorge

Walking into the gorge itself (rather than viewing from the rim) is the serious option. The Martel Trail (GR4) is the main route through the gorge floor, taking 2 days from Rougon to Moustiers. The full trail requires a shuttle arrangement and preparedness for tight passages, some exposed scrambling, and the famous tunnels section that goes through 2 km of unlit tunnel (torches required). It is not technical climbing but it is demanding.

Day walks from the Point Sublime car park at Rougon reach the gorge interior in 30-45 minutes. The path descends via a good trail to the river and follows it upstream toward the tunnels. Turn around when you have seen enough; no requirement to complete the full route.

Rock climbing is the other activity the gorge is known for internationally. The limestone walls from 80 to 300 metres have been developed since the 1960s and now offer hundreds of routes at all grades. The sector around Palud-sur-Verdon (the village that sits between the two rim roads) has the most concentrated access.

Moustiers-Sainte-Marie

The village at the western end of the gorge is architecturally remarkable: it sits in a notch between two limestone cliffs with a waterfall and a star suspended on a chain between the cliffs (a votive offering from a returning Crusader, according to local tradition, though the current chain and star are modern replacements). Moustiers has been a centre of faience (tin-glazed earthenware) production since the 17th century; there are about 15 ateliers still operating in the village where you can watch production and buy directly.

Do not attempt to park in the village in July or August. Use the large car park 500 metres outside and walk in.

Getting There

The nearest airport is Marseille Provence (MRS), 120 km southwest. By car: A51 from Aix-en-Provence to Sisteron, then south to Castellane. The drive from Marseille to Castellane takes around 2 hours. There is no realistic public transport access to the gorge interior.

The best time to visit is May-June or September-October. July and August are hot (38+ degrees in the canyon), crowded, and the lake fills with day-trippers. September has the best weather stability and reduced crowds.