Great Geysir, Iceland

Great Geysir: The Original, Now Asleep

Every geyser in the world takes its name from this one. The word “geyser” comes directly from Geysir, a hot spring in the Haukadalur valley in southwestern Iceland that erupted with so much force and so much fame during the 17th and 18th centuries that its name became the generic term. Geysir itself last erupted reliably in the early 20th century and has been largely dormant since, waking occasionally after earthquakes. There is something worth sitting with in that: the object that gave the word to the world is no longer performing.

The good news is that Strokkur, located about 50 metres from the dormant Great Geysir, erupts every 5 to 10 minutes and shoots water 20 to 40 metres into the air. It is reliable, photogenic, and free to watch. You stand in a loose crowd facing the pool, wait for the water to dome up in the seconds before the eruption, and then it happens. Most people stay for three or four eruptions. It is one of those natural phenomena that holds attention better than you expect it to.

Haukadalur Geothermal Valley

The valley sits atop the junction of the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates, which creates the geothermal intensity that drives both Geysir and Strokkur. The wider area around the geysers has dozens of smaller hot springs, mud pools, and steam vents with mineral deposits that tint the ground in yellows and blues. Blesi, a pair of pools with different temperatures and colours, is a short walk from the main area and worth the detour.

Admission to the geothermal area is free. The visitor centre, shop, and Geysir Center restaurant are on site but not obligatory. The landscape is best walked in the morning before the Golden Circle tour buses arrive from Reykjavik.

The Golden Circle Context

The Haukadalur geysers are the central stop on the Golden Circle, Iceland’s most popular day-trip route from Reykjavik. The three anchor points are Thingvellir National Park (45 kilometres away, the site of Iceland’s original parliament founded in 930 AD, and the rift valley between the two tectonic plates), the Geysir area, and Gullfoss waterfall (9 kilometres further, a double-tier waterfall plunging 32 metres into a narrow basalt canyon). The full loop takes about 6 to 8 hours from Reykjavik by car. Every tour operator in the country runs it; driving yourself gives more control over timing and stops.

The Secret Lagoon in Flúðir, about 20 minutes from the geysers, is a smaller and cheaper geothermal pool than the Blue Lagoon, fed by natural hot springs and surrounded by steam vents and small geysers. It costs around 2,000 to 3,000 ISK for entry, significantly less than the Blue Lagoon, and provides a more rustic swimming experience that locals consider a better representative of how Icelanders actually use geothermal water.

Where to Stay

The Geysir Geothermal Hotel, directly adjacent to the geothermal area, uses geothermal energy for all its heating and provides immediate morning access to the site before day-trip crowds arrive. Laugarvatn, about 15 kilometres away, has the Laugarvatn Fontana spa and several guesthouses. Most visitors covering the Golden Circle stay in Reykjavik and do the route as a day trip.

Practical Notes

The ground near active hot springs reaches temperatures exceeding 100 degrees Celsius in places. Stay on the paths. The coloured mats of algae around the springs indicate dangerously hot water. The Strokkur eruption spray can reach several metres; stand upwind. Dress in layers and expect wind year-round. The best photography of Strokkur happens in the second before the eruption when the dome of water is fully formed – anticipate rather than react.