Hue Vietnam

Hue: Vietnam’s Imperial Capital Deserves More Than a Day Trip

Hue sits on the Perfume River in central Vietnam, roughly equidistant between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. Most travellers treat it as a one-day stop on a north-south journey. Two days is the minimum for doing it properly; three is better, particularly if you want to spend real time at more than one of the imperial tombs.

The city was the capital of the Nguyen Dynasty from 1802 to 1945 – Vietnam’s last imperial dynasty, which unified the country under a single authority for the first time. The citadel was heavily bombed during the Vietnam War, particularly during the 1968 Tet Offensive and its brutal aftermath, and large sections were destroyed. Restoration has been ongoing for decades. What you see today is partly reconstructed, partly original, and entirely worth your time.

The Imperial Citadel

The citadel is a walled city within the city. Entry is through the Ngo Mon Gate, a multi-tiered ceremonial structure used for royal proclamations. Inside, the Forbidden Purple City – where the emperor and his immediate family lived – is largely foundations and ruins now, but the scale of what was here is still legible from the surviving outline. The Thai Hoa Palace (Throne Room) is the best-preserved main structure and has been carefully restored. Allow two to three hours for the main complex. Entry is 200,000 VND for adults.

The Imperial Tombs

The Nguyen emperors built elaborate tomb complexes 7 to 10 kilometres south of the city. Each one is distinct in character.

Khai Dinh Tomb is the most visually striking: a steep hillside construction mixing Vietnamese, French, and Chinese architectural elements in combinations that seem like they should fail. The interior is covered floor-to-ceiling in mosaics of porcelain and glass. It is baroque to the point of excess and worth seeing for exactly that reason.

Tu Duc Tomb is the opposite: a large, forested complex of pavilions, ponds, and gardens where the longest-reigning Nguyen emperor spent much of his reign composing poetry and relaxing. It has a genuine tranquility that the other sites lack and is the one I would recommend spending the most time at.

Entry to each tomb is 150,000 to 200,000 VND. A motorbike taxi (xe om) for a half-day tour of two or three tombs costs around 200,000 to 300,000 VND total.

Food

Hue has one of the most specific culinary identities in Vietnam. Bun bo Hue – thick rice noodles in a spicy lemongrass and beef broth, topped with sliced beef, pork knuckle, and fresh herbs – is richer and more complex than pho and far less internationally known. Find it at street stalls in the morning for 50,000 to 70,000 VND a bowl; the best versions are usually at unremarkable-looking spots with small plastic stools and local regulars.

Banh beo (steamed rice cakes with shrimp and pork crackling), banh khoai (crispy savoury pancakes with shrimp and pork), and com hen (clam rice) are all local specialities that rarely appear on tourist restaurant menus but are worth finding. Dong Ba Market near the river has good food stalls and a produce section where the actual city buys its groceries.

Where to Stay

The Pilgrimage Village on the outskirts is the premium option with spa facilities. La Residence Hotel occupies a beautifully restored French colonial building on the river. Budget options cluster along the riverfront, with guesthouse rooms from 300,000 to 500,000 VND.

Getting Around

Motorbike rental is the most practical way to visit the tombs and outlying sites: around 100,000 to 150,000 VND per day. The tourist boat along the Perfume River stops at Thien Mu Pagoda on the way to the tombs and takes 90 minutes each direction – slower but considerably more atmospheric than the road.