Isla Mujeres

Isla Mujeres: Better Than Cancun, Cheaper Than Tulum

Isla Mujeres is a 7-km island in the Caribbean Sea, 13 km northeast of Cancun, accessible by a 20-minute ferry. Where Cancun is all-inclusives and convention hotels, and Tulum has become expensive and overrun, Isla Mujeres has managed to stay relatively sane. The streets are narrow enough that golf carts are the standard vehicle, the town still has an actual fishing community, and Playa Norte is as good as Caribbean beach gets without a four-figure price tag for a lounge chair.

Getting There

Ultramar and Magana ferries run from Puerto Juarez on the Cancun mainland, about 20 minutes north of the hotel zone by taxi. The ferry takes 20 minutes and costs around 200-250 pesos return. Ferries run roughly every 30 minutes and start early. There is also a more expensive ferry from the Hotel Zone that takes slightly longer.

Day-trippers from Cancun come in numbers, particularly on weekends. If you are staying overnight, the island quiets down remarkably once the ferries stop in the evening.

Playa Norte

This beach at the northern tip of the island is the main draw. Shallow, calm, extraordinarily clear water in genuinely turquoise tones. The sand is fine and white. The beach bars rent chairs and serve drinks. None of this is controversial. What is worth knowing is that Playa Norte on a Saturday in high season (December through April) hosts thousands of day visitors and can feel far less peaceful than it looks in photographs.

Come on a weekday morning or stay overnight and walk there at 07:00. In either case, swim toward the northwestern corner where the current brings cleaner water and the crowds are thinnest.

Punta Sur

The southern tip of the island has a small lighthouse, the ruins of a Mayan temple dedicated to Ixchel (the moon goddess, for whom the island may be named), and a rocky shoreline with rough surf. The sunset views from the cliffs are among the best on the island. A sculpture garden of modest quality sits nearby. Worth the golf cart trip (15 minutes from town) but not the main reason to visit.

Whale Sharks

Between May and September, the waters around Holbox and the northern Yucatan coast host whale shark aggregations that are one of the more extraordinary wildlife experiences in Mexico. Several operators on Isla Mujeres run snorkelling excursions to see them. A typical day trip runs 2,500-3,500 pesos per person including boat, gear, and guides. The experience involves swimming in open water alongside the largest fish on earth (commonly 8-10 metres at these feeding aggregations). Dress in long sleeves and reef-safe sunscreen, and be aware that surface conditions can make some people seasick.

The season peaks in July and August when numbers are highest. Earlier in the season (May-June) tends to have smaller groups and better visibility.

Snorkelling and Diving

The reef off the south and east coasts has degraded over the years due to boat traffic and storm damage, but the Manchones Reef, accessible by boat from the town dock, is still worth visiting. Several dive operators on the waterfront offer two-tank dives for around 1,200-1,500 pesos. MUSA (the Museo Subacuatico de Arte), an underwater museum of submerged sculptures, is accessible from Cancun or Isla Mujeres and appeals to snorkellers and divers alike.

Food

The town grid has three or four streets that are worth walking. El Patio on Hidalgo serves traditional Yucatecan food: cochinita pibil, sopa de lima, poc chuc (grilled marinated pork). The cooking is not fancy but it is the right thing to eat here. Lola Valentina, closer to the beach, does the more tourist-friendly version.

For breakfast, any cafe near the town market open by 07:30 will have pan dulce, fresh fruit, and decent coffee for 50-80 pesos. Skip the hotel breakfast.

Mexican pesos work everywhere. The ATM at the ferry dock charges steep fees; use one in town at HSBC or Banamex. Credit cards are accepted at most restaurants but not all.

Where to Stay

Accommodation ranges from guesthouses near the ferry dock for 600-900 pesos per night to boutique hotels on or near Playa Norte for 2,000-4,000 pesos. Ixchel Beach Hotel on the beach is well-located and fairly priced for what it is. For budget travellers, Poc-Na Hostel near Playa Norte is a well-established option with dorms and private rooms.

Book a month ahead for December through February. Last-minute rooms in high season are genuinely scarce.