Jerusalem Old City

Jerusalem Old City: One Square Kilometre of Contested History

The Old City of Jerusalem covers about 0.9 square kilometres, divided into four quarters — Jewish, Muslim, Christian, and Armenian — within walls built by Suleiman the Magnificent between 1537 and 1541. These walls enclose some of the most contested religious real estate on earth: the Western Wall, the Temple Mount/Haram al-Sharif, and the Church of the Holy Sepulchre are within a few hundred metres of each other.

The Western Wall

The Western Wall is a retaining wall of the Temple Mount, surviving from the Second Temple period (roughly 19 BCE to 70 CE). It is the most significant site in Judaism for prayer; the plaza in front is permanently active, with people praying, leaving notes in the wall cracks, and gathering for Shabbat and holiday celebrations. The plaza is divided into men’s and women’s sections. Entry is free; modest dress is required and head covering is necessary at the wall itself (kippot are provided for men).

The Western Wall Tunnel tour, booked through the Western Wall Heritage Foundation, takes you through the excavated sections north of the plaza, including the largest stone in the Temple Mount structure (approximately 570 tonnes) and the section closest to the former Holy of Holies.

Temple Mount / Haram al-Sharif

The walled platform above the Western Wall contains the Dome of the Rock (691 CE), one of the oldest surviving Islamic structures, and the Al-Aqsa Mosque (709 CE). The Dome of the Rock’s interior is closed to non-Muslims; the esplanade and exterior are accessible during specific hours. Non-Muslim access is through the Mughrabi Gate adjacent to the Western Wall plaza and is restricted to certain morning and afternoon windows — hours change seasonally and access can be suspended during periods of tension. Check current status before planning.

The gold-covered dome and the blue tilework below it are visible from multiple points across the city. The view from the Mount of Olives to the east, 15-20 minutes’ walk from the Old City, takes in the full eastern face of the platform.

Church of the Holy Sepulchre

In the Christian Quarter, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre contains the traditional sites of the crucifixion, burial, and resurrection of Jesus. The church is shared between six Christian denominations (Greek Orthodox, Roman Catholic, Armenian, Coptic, Ethiopian, and Syriac) under an arrangement called the Status Quo, in which every part of the church is allocated to a specific church and no changes can be made without agreement from all. This leads to some notably unusual spatial arrangements. Entry is free; the queue for the Edicule (the tomb itself) can be 1-3 hours on busy days.

The Souks and the Armenian Quarter

The covered markets of the Muslim Quarter — Shuk HaTsvaot (Market of the Flagbearers), the Via Dolorosa, and the market streets connecting the Damascus Gate to the Temple Mount — sell spices, clothing, ceramics, and fresh food in a layout that has not substantially changed since the medieval period. The Armenian Quarter, south of the Christian Quarter, is the quietest and most intact of the four, with a functioning convent, the Cathedral of Saint James (open for brief prayer hours, not a tourist site), and a small museum covering the Armenian genocide.

The King David Hotel, west of the Old City walls on King David Street, is the reference point for high-end accommodation. The American Colony Hotel in East Jerusalem is the traditional journalists’ hotel and has a good restaurant. Accommodation within the Old City walls is available but limited.