Jokhang Temple Lhasa

Jokhang Temple: The Actual Centre of Tibetan Religious Life

Before anything else, a practical note: accessing Tibet as a foreign visitor requires a Tibet Travel Permit on top of your Chinese visa, plus (in most cases) a group tour and additional area permits. Independent travel is not permitted. The situation has changed frequently in recent years, so verify current regulations before planning. With that understood, here’s what’s there.

The Temple Itself

The Jokhang was built in the 7th century under King Songtsen Gampo, and the core structure is ancient despite significant rebuilding over the centuries. It sits at the centre of the Barkhor, the pilgrimage circuit that encircles it. The temple is the most sacred site in Tibetan Buddhism and functions as a working religious centre, not a museum.

The principal object inside is the Jowo Rinpoche, a statue of Sakyamuni Buddha at age 12, reportedly brought from China as part of the dowry when the king married the Chinese princess Wencheng. The gold and jewelled statue is considered the most precious in Tibet. The line to view it is slow and the room is dim; people have prostrated to this statue for over 1,300 years and you can feel it.

The upper floors have chapels dedicated to various deities and protective figures. The rooftop gives you a view across old Lhasa toward the Potala Palace on its hill to the west, which is disorienting and wonderful together.

The Barkhor Circuit

The Barkhor is a street circuit about 800 metres around the temple. Pilgrims walk it clockwise, spinning prayer wheels at the stations along the route. Some complete hundreds of circuits during stays in Lhasa; others travel for weeks to reach it. It’s also lined with stalls selling religious objects, thangka paintings, prayer flags, and all manner of tourist goods. The two realities coexist without obvious friction.

The market component is worth a wander but bargain hard; prices for foreigners start high.

Practical Visiting

The temple opens around 8am and closes by 5pm. Mornings are significantly better for experiencing pilgrimage activity. Entry costs approximately 85 yuan. Photography rules inside the prayer halls change; check at the entrance.

Dress modestly. Shoulders and knees covered. Shoes come off in certain areas; socks are a good idea.

Where to Eat Near the Barkhor

Several restaurants around the Barkhor serve Tibetan food at reasonable prices. Momos (steamed or fried dumplings with meat or vegetable filling) are the staple; thukpa is a noodle soup that’s good for altitude recovery. Snowland Restaurant near the Barkhor has been serving travellers for years and does both reliably.

Yak butter tea (po cha) is an acquired taste, salty and pungent. Try it once.

Altitude

Lhasa sits at 3,650 metres. Altitude sickness affects most visitors to some degree. Headaches, fatigue, and breathlessness are normal for the first two days. Ascending slowly (rather than flying directly from sea level), staying hydrated, and avoiding alcohol in the first 48 hours all help. Some visitors take acetazolamide (Diamox) preventively; consult a doctor before the trip.