Lake Wanaka

Lake Wanaka: The Best Argument for Not Going to Queenstown

Lake Wanaka sits about 70 kilometres north of Queenstown in New Zealand’s South Island, separated by the Crown Range. It shares the same basic geography – deep glacial lake, surrounding ranges, dramatic light – but has remained smaller, calmer, and less commercially aggressive than its famous neighbour. People who come to Wanaka for the first time frequently consider not going to Queenstown at all.

That said, Wanaka is not undiscovered. The Wanaka Tree – a solitary willow growing from the lake shallows a few hundred metres from the town centre – became one of New Zealand’s most photographed subjects through Instagram, and the attention it generated now brings real crowds. Summer weekends get busy. The right visit is autumn or winter.

The Walks

Mount Iron is the obvious first walk: a 45-minute loop from the edge of town through mixed terrain to a summit that gives you the full lake view, Mount Aspiring to the northwest, and the Cardrona valley to the south. Well-signed from the southern end of Wanaka-Mount Aspiring Road and requires no special equipment.

Roy’s Peak is the demanding version – about 16 kilometres return with 1,279 metres of elevation gain, taking most fit walkers 5 to 6 hours. The summit views are outstanding: Lake Wanaka below, Lake Hawea to the north separated by the peninsula, Mount Aspiring in the distance. The walk is closed October to mid-November for lambing. Start before 6am to avoid the crowds that have developed at the saddle below the summit in recent years.

The Rob Roy Valley Track in Mount Aspiring National Park, accessible by gravel road 40 minutes from Wanaka via the Matukituki Valley, has hanging glaciers visible from a viewpoint two hours’ walk from the car park. It is one of the best short walks in New Zealand and is significantly less crowded than the Routeburn or Milford tracks.

Skiing

Two ski areas: Cardrona Alpine Resort (larger, more beginner-friendly, better groomed runs) and Treble Cone (steeper, more suited to intermediate and advanced, better views). Season runs roughly late June to October. Cardrona is about 30 minutes from Wanaka; Treble Cone is 25. Book accommodation months in advance for July and August school holidays.

Eating

Francesca’s Italian Kitchen on Helwick Street has been a Wanaka staple for years: honest pasta and pizza with good local wine. Ritual Coffee Roasters is the best coffee stop, with beans roasted on-site. The Gin Trap is worth a visit in the evening if New Zealand gin interests you – it is a small but growing category and this bar takes it seriously.

Getting There

By car from Queenstown: via the Crown Range Road (spectacular, narrow, occasionally closed in winter) or the Cromwell highway (flatter, reliable year-round). 70 minutes via Crown Range, 90 via Cromwell. No direct flights serve Wanaka. From Christchurch, allow roughly four hours.