Luxembourg

Luxembourg: A Hidden Gem in Europe

Luxembourg is a landlocked country of roughly 650,000 people wedged between Belgium, France, and Germany. For a grand duchy that covers just 2,586 square kilometres, it is astonishingly dense in history, castle landscapes, and financial firepower: it is one of the founding members of the European Union, the seat of the Court of Justice and the European Investment Bank, and the only remaining sovereign grand duchy in the world. Luxembourg City itself is a UNESCO World Heritage Site built on sheer sandstone cliffs above the Alzette and Pétrusse rivers, with medieval fortifications wrapping a quietly wealthy modern capital. Beyond the city, the country breaks into the hiking landscapes of the Mullerthal (“Little Switzerland”), the wine villages of the Moselle, and the fairytale castles of the Ardennes. A long weekend covers the highlights comfortably.

Understanding the Country

Luxembourg is trilingual: French is the administrative and legal language, German the usual press language, and Luxembourgish (a dialect related to Moselle Franconian) the everyday spoken language. English is widely understood in the capital.

The country splits roughly into four regions:

  • Luxembourg City and its immediate surroundings in the south.
  • The Moselle Valley on the German border, Luxembourg’s wine region.
  • The Mullerthal in the east, the “Little Switzerland” hiking country.
  • The Ardennes in the north, with dense forests, castles, and World War II battlefields.

Trains and buses are efficient and, since 2020, free for everyone on all public transport nationwide, tourists included.

Where to Visit

Luxembourg City

The fortified old town sits on a sandstone plateau above a deep ravine, which makes it one of the most dramatically sited capitals in Europe.

  • The Chemin de la Corniche: Often called “the most beautiful balcony in Europe,” this walkway follows the old city walls above the Alzette with sweeping views over the Grund district below.
  • Casemates du Bock: A network of 17th-century defensive tunnels carved 40 metres deep into the sandstone bluff beneath the Bock promontory. UNESCO-listed and spectacular.
  • Grand Ducal Palace: The 16th-century Renaissance palace of the Grand Duke, open for guided visits in July and August. The Changing of the Guard happens a few times a day outside.
  • Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Luxembourg: 17th-century late Gothic cathedral with remarkable Renaissance and Baroque elements. The crypt holds the tombs of the Grand Ducal family.
  • Place d’Armes and Place Guillaume II: The two main central squares, lined with cafes.
  • Grund, Pfaffenthal, and Clausen: The old lower-town districts in the ravine, reached by panoramic lift or steep staircase. Atmospheric for an evening walk; good restaurants.
  • Kirchberg Plateau: Across the Adolphe Bridge, the modern EU quarter with the Philharmonie Luxembourg concert hall and the Mudam (Musée d’Art Moderne Grand-Duc Jean), a striking I.M. Pei-designed contemporary art museum built into old Fort Thüngen.
  • Adolphe Bridge: The twin-arched 1903 stone viaduct that was the world’s largest of its kind when built and is still a symbol of the city.

Vianden

A village in the Ardennes dominated by Vianden Castle, one of the great medieval castles of Europe. Dating mainly from the 11th to 14th centuries, its restored towers, ramparts, and banquet halls are open for visits. Victor Hugo spent time in exile here; his house is now a small museum. The Our valley chairlift lifts you above the village for the classic postcard view.

Mullerthal (“Little Switzerland”)

A densely forested region of sandstone formations, deep gorges, and small waterfalls. The Mullerthal Trail, a 112-kilometre waymarked network in three routes, is among the best hiking in the Low Countries. Beaufort Castle (with renaissance and medieval halls) and Echternach, Luxembourg’s oldest town, with its UNESCO-listed Dancing Procession each Whit Tuesday, are worthwhile stops.

Moselle Valley

The wine country along the German border produces predominantly Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, and Luxembourg’s sparkling crémant. The Route du Vin threads through vineyards and villages including Remich, Grevenmacher, and Schengen, the small riverside village that gave its name to the Schengen Agreement in 1985. Several domaine cellar doors offer tastings; local cooperatives like Vinsmoselle are accessible introductions.

Northern Luxembourg and the Ardennes

  • Clervaux Castle houses Edward Steichen’s The Family of Man photographic exhibition, a UNESCO Memory of the World.
  • Bourscheid Castle: Dramatic hilltop medieval ruin in the Sauer valley.
  • Esch-sur-Sûre: A small village almost encircled by the river beneath a ruined 10th-century castle.
  • Bastogne (just over the Belgian border): Central to the Battle of the Bulge history.

Foodie Delights

Luxembourgish cuisine is an eclectic blend of French, German, Belgian, and Portuguese influences (the last due to a large Portuguese immigrant community).

  • Judd mat Gaardebounen: The national dish, smoked pork collar with broad beans.
  • Bouneschlupp: Green bean soup with potatoes and bacon.
  • Gromperenzopp and Gromperekichelcher: Potato soup and the iconic fried potato fritters sold at markets.
  • Kniddelen: Flour-and-egg dumplings typically served with bacon and cream sauce.
  • Rieslingspaschtéit: Veal or pork pâté in Riesling jelly, wrapped in pastry.
  • Friture de la Moselle: Small fried river fish along the Moselle.
  • Pastéis de Nata: Portuguese custard tarts ubiquitous in Luxembourg’s bakeries thanks to the Portuguese community.
  • Crémant de Luxembourg: The country’s sparkling wine, a fraction of champagne prices and often as good.

Restaurants worth bookmarking in Luxembourg City include Mosconi (two Michelin stars, Italian), La Cristallerie (one star), and the more casual Um Dierfgen for traditional Luxembourgish cooking.

Where to Stay

  • Hôtel Le Royal Luxembourg: Long-established five-star in the city centre.
  • Sofitel Luxembourg Le Grand Ducal: Modern five-star on the plateau with panoramic views over the Pétrusse valley.
  • Hôtel Parc Beaux Arts: Boutique in the old town, small and stylish.
  • Hotel Le Place d’Armes: Relais & Châteaux member on the main square.
  • Meliá Luxembourg on Kirchberg: Modern business-traveler base close to the Philharmonie and Mudam.
  • Budget and mid-range: Hotel Simoncini and Hotel Français, both central. Hostels around the station include the Youth Hostel of Luxembourg in Pfaffenthal.
  • Vianden: Auberge Aal Veinen “Beim Hunn” and Hotel Heintz are traditional inns.
  • Mullerthal: Hotel Koener in Echternach and Hotel Bel-Air in Berdorf suit hikers.
  • Moselle: Hotel-Restaurant Cocoon by Pundel in Remich for wine-country stays.

Things to Do

  • Walk the Wenzel Circular Walk (around 5 km, 2 hours) traces 1,000 years of fortifications from the Bock promontory down through the Grund and back up.
  • Panoramic lift from Pfaffenthal to the city ramparts: A glass lift with a spectacular ride, free to use.
  • Mudam Luxembourg: I.M. Pei’s modern-art museum atop old Fort Thüngen.
  • National Museum of History and Art (MNHA): Archaeology and fine art from Roman Luxembourg onward.
  • National Museum of Military History (Diekirch): Europe’s leading Battle of the Bulge museum.
  • Hike the Mullerthal Trail: Day sections are straightforward; the full route takes four to six days.
  • Visit a wine cellar on the Moselle: Caves Bernard-Massard, Domaine Alice Hartmann, or the large Vinsmoselle cooperatives.
  • Attend a concert at Philharmonie Luxembourg: Exceptional acoustics in a building by Christian de Portzamparc.
  • Schueberfouer (late August to early September): A 680-year-old funfair that takes over the Glacis in Luxembourg City, one of the oldest continuous festivals in Europe.

Tips for Travelers

  • Public transport is free for everyone (buses, trams, and trains) inside Luxembourg, a remarkable policy introduced in 2020. Just board without ticketing. First-class train travel still requires a ticket.
  • Three official languages: French, German, and Luxembourgish. English is widely spoken in the capital.
  • Luxembourg Card: Offers free or discounted access to over 70 museums and attractions; useful if you plan to visit several.
  • Comfortable shoes: Luxembourg City is hilly, with steep cobbled stairways between upper and lower towns.
  • Currency: Euro. Cards accepted almost everywhere; the country is among the most contactless in Europe.
  • When to visit: Late spring to early autumn is best. Winter is quiet, cold, and atmospheric, particularly around the Christmas markets.
  • Day trips abroad: Trier (Roman heritage, 45 minutes by train into Germany), Metz (France, high-speed train), and Bastogne (Belgian Ardennes, car) are all easy.

Luxembourg rewards the traveler who thinks it is too small to bother with. A long weekend gives you a UNESCO-listed fortress capital, a castle straight from a storybook, a hiking region misleadingly called “Little Switzerland,” and a wine valley along the Moselle. Few small countries offer so varied a short trip.