Madagascar

Madagascar: A Country That Rewards Patience

Madagascar is the fourth-largest island in the world, separated from Africa for around 88 million years, which means its flora and fauna evolved independently from anywhere else on earth. Around 90% of its wildlife is endemic. There are 105 species of lemur, all unique to Madagascar. There are also over 300 species of bird, half the world’s chameleon species, and baobab trees that have been growing for thousands of years. The ecological argument for visiting is straightforward.

The infrastructure argument is less straightforward. Roads are bad — genuinely bad. Many national parks require a full day of travel to reach. Internal flights exist but are limited. This is not a country for a quick week. Budget two weeks minimum if you want to reach more than one or two regions. A good local operator is essential and worth paying for.

What to See and Where

Andasibe-Mantadia National Park (about 3.5 hours by road from Antananarivo) is the most accessible major park and the best place to see the Indri, the largest living lemur. The Indri’s territorial call — a loud, haunting wail that carries through the forest — is one of Madagascar’s defining sounds. Dawn is when they’re most vocal. The park also has spectacular orchids if you visit during the right season (October to December).

Avenue des Baobabs near Morondava on the west coast is the photograph most people associate with Madagascar. Six giant baobabs line a dirt road between farmland, their tops silhouetted against spectacular sunsets. It’s genuinely beautiful. The road is technically just a public road through agricultural land, so it’s free to visit and accessible any time. Arrive an hour before sunset.

Isalo National Park (southwest) is sandstone canyon country — eroded massifs, swimming holes at the bottom of gorges, ring-tailed lemurs on almost every trail. It’s the park that consistently surprises visitors who expected only rainforest. Allow two to three days.

Nosy Be (northwest) is the main beach destination, with good snorkelling, reasonable dive sites, and an easy pace. It’s more developed than most of Madagascar and correspondingly more expensive. Île Sainte-Marie on the east coast is smaller, less touristy, and worth prioritising if you have a choice.

Food

Romazava, a beef or zebu stew with leafy greens and ginger, is the closest thing to a national dish. Rice accompanies almost everything. Fresh seafood on the coast is excellent and cheap by any international standard — grilled lobster at a beach shack in Nosy Be is frequently cited as a highlight by visiting travellers who expected to spend much more for the same experience.

Practical Notes

Malaria is present in most of Madagascar below 2,000 metres. Take prophylaxis seriously and bring a good insect repellent. Vaccinations for yellow fever, typhoid, and hepatitis A are advised.

The local currency is the Malagasy Ariary (MGA). US dollars are widely accepted in hotels and tourist businesses, but you’ll need ariary for markets, transport, and anything outside the tourist economy.

French is the co-official language along with Malagasy. In major cities, some English is spoken in tourist contexts, but French helps considerably outside them.