Molokai, Hawaii

Molokai Has No Traffic Lights, No Buildings Taller Than a Palm Tree, and No Interest in Changing That

The island has around 7,400 residents and a sustained community effort against large-scale resort development that has held since the 1970s – residents voted twice against major proposals and have maintained the position. Coming to Molokai expecting the hotels and facilities of Maui is arriving at the wrong airport.

That is precisely the point and the attraction. Molokai is one of the few Hawaiian islands where the dominant culture remains genuinely Native Hawaiian in character, where subsistence fishing and small-scale farming are still practiced, and where visitors are guests in a working community rather than consumers of a managed experience. It is the most honest version of Hawaii available.

Kalaupapa National Historical Park

This is Molokai’s most significant historical site. Kalaupapa is a flat peninsula at the base of the world’s tallest sea cliffs, accessible only by mule trail down a 3.2-kilometre switchback path, by small aircraft, or by boat in calm conditions. The peninsula was the site of a Hansen’s disease (leprosy) settlement from 1866 to 1969, to which over 8,000 people were forcibly exiled by the Hawaiian Board of Health.

The settlement’s most famous resident was Father Damien de Veuster, a Belgian Catholic priest who came in 1873 and chose to remain until his death from the same disease in 1889. He was canonised by the Catholic Church in 2009. The settlement still has a small number of elderly survivors living there voluntarily; the National Park Service manages the historic buildings. Guided tours are operated by Damien Tours and are the only authorised means of visiting – independent wandering is not permitted. Tours depart from Kalaupapa and last 3 to 4 hours by open-air vehicle. Children under 16 are not admitted. Book through the NPS website.

Papohaku Beach

Three miles of white sand on the west coast, frequently empty. Papohaku is one of the largest white-sand beaches in Hawaii and you may have most of it to yourself. The water has a strong shore break that makes swimming unreliable; this is a walking and watching beach rather than a swimming one. West-facing, it is excellent for sunsets.

Halawa Valley

The easternmost valley on the island has been continuously inhabited for approximately 1,500 years. To access the interior and the Moaula (60 feet) and Hipuapua (250 feet) waterfalls, you must be accompanied by a Native Hawaiian guide – this is a cultural and legal requirement, not merely advisory. Several families in the valley conduct guided hikes combining cultural interpretation with the walk to the falls. Allow four to five hours. The drive to Halawa along the east coast’s Kamehameha V Highway is itself worth the time, winding through small communities and fishponds with views of Maui across the water.

The Pali Coast

Molokai’s north coast has the highest sea cliffs in the world – 3,900 feet rising directly from the ocean. They are inaccessible by land. The best views are by air (charter flights from Hoolehua Airport) or by sea kayak in calm summer conditions. The multi-day kayak route along the north coast from Halawa to Kalaupapa is a serious expedition only viable in summer when north swells subside. It is not a beginner trip.

Food and Logistics

Kaunakakai, the main town, has one grocery store, a gas station, a handful of restaurants, and Kanemitsu’s Bakery which opens at midnight and draws local regulars for hot bread. Paddlers Restaurant and Bar on the waterfront serves reliable local food. There is no fine dining on Molokai – that is a characteristic, not a gap.

Small aircraft from Honolulu and Maui via Mokulele Airlines serve the island; flights take 20 to 30 minutes. Rental cars are available at the airport but supply is limited; book in advance. The island has no Uber and no taxi network worth relying on.