Moorea French Polynesia

Moorea: The Island Next Door That Most People Are Glad They Chose

Moorea is 17 kilometres west of Tahiti – 20 minutes by ferry, 10 minutes by small plane – and is, by most honest measures, the more rewarding destination. Where Tahiti is a large high volcanic island that meets the sea without much of a barrier reef, Moorea has an almost complete reef encircling a shallow lagoon that runs from pale turquoise at the reef edge to deep green near the shore. The island’s profile – two deep bays cutting into the north coast with jagged peaks behind – is immediately recognisable from any aerial photograph of French Polynesia, and the view from either bay looking up at those peaks is about as close to a South Pacific postcard as actual places get.

The two bays on the north coast are Cook’s Bay and Opunohu Bay. Cook’s Bay is the more commercial with the main village (Maharepa) and concentration of shops; Opunohu is quieter, with a boat charter pier and far fewer permanent structures along its shore. The lagoon between them is the main swimming and snorkelling ground.

Water

The lagoon produces reliable snorkelling from shore at several points, particularly around the reef passages on the north coast. Lemon sharks and blacktip reef sharks rest in the shallower lagoon areas and sightings from snorkelling tours are common. The sharks are not aggressive in these conditions – the environment simply is what it is, and visitors who understand that swim among them without incident.

Humpback whale watching runs roughly July through November when Antarctic-feeding humpbacks arrive in the warm water to breed. Half-day tours from Vaiare leave early morning; actual time with whales depends on conditions and varies considerably. July and August give the most reliable sightings.

The Interior

The Belvedere viewpoint, reached by road through the agricultural interior, gives a view down into both bays simultaneously – the image that most captures Moorea’s specific geography. The road passes vanilla plantations and the Lycee Agricole, the agricultural college that produces much of the island’s exported produce.

The Opunohu Valley contains Marae Titiroa and associated pre-contact Polynesian ceremonial platforms built from coral and basalt. They date from around the 10th century CE and are among the best-preserved marae in French Polynesia. The valley trail connecting several sites takes about 2 hours. Most visitors who focus only on the lagoon miss the entire pre-European history of the island.

Getting There and Staying

The ferry from Papeete (Tahiti) departs from the downtown waterfront and takes about 30 minutes to Vaiare on Moorea’s eastern coast. Multiple daily departures. Small planes take 10 minutes from Faa’a Airport.

Accommodation ranges from the InterContinental Moorea’s overwater bungalows (the full Polynesian resort experience, priced accordingly) to smaller pensions (family-run guesthouses) at XPF 8,000 to 15,000 per night for a double room. The pensions frequently include breakfast and provide more authentic contact with Polynesian hospitality than the international resort. Renting a car or scooter is necessary for independent exploration; the round-island road is about 60 kilometres.

May through October is the dry season with lower humidity and less rain. November through April is warmer and wetter, with some cyclone risk between January and March. The dry season, particularly July and August when whale watching is optimal, is peak demand; book well ahead.