Mount Fuji

Mount Fuji: Climbing the Volcano and Understanding the New Regulations

Mount Fuji at 3,776 metres is an active stratovolcano and the highest peak in Japan, visible on clear days from Tokyo (about 100 kilometres north-east) and from across the Kanto and Chubu regions. It has been a sacred mountain since at least the 7th century, a pilgrimage site, and the subject of more Japanese art than any other natural landmark. Hokusai’s Thirty-Six Views of Mount Fuji and Hiroshige’s versions of the same subject established the mountain’s global image in the 19th century.

Climbing Fuji has become genuinely problematic in recent years. Annual visitor numbers to the trails exceeded 220,000, with July and August bringing conditions described by mountain rangers as overcrowded and dangerous: hikers attempting the ascent in cotton clothing without proper gear, night climbers creating a continuous line of headlamps from base to summit (the “bullet climbing” phenomenon of ascending in one continuous push without acclimatisation stops), and trail conditions degraded by sheer numbers.

In 2024, the Yamanashi Prefecture authorities closed the most popular Yoshida Trail section (the Subashiri crossing to the 5th Station from above the forest line) except to ticketed, properly equipped climbers, and implemented a daily cap of 4,000 climbers per day on the Yoshida route. A barrier gate closes the trail when the daily cap is reached. This situation will continue to evolve; check current regulations at the Yamanashi/Shizuoka Fuji tourism authorities before planning.

The Trails

Yoshida Trail (north side, Yamanashi Prefecture): the most popular, best-serviced, with the most mountain huts and the busiest. 5th Station is at 2,305 metres; summit at 3,776 metres. Total ascent around 1,400 metres, approximately 5-7 hours up, 3-4 hours down. This route closes in the new regulation system when daily capacity is reached.

Subashiri Trail (east side, Shizuoka Prefecture): longer approach from a lower 5th Station (2,000 metres), joins the Yoshida route above the 8th Station. Less crowded, good descent route via the sandy switchbacks.

Gotemba Trail (south-east side): the longest route and least used, starting at 1,440 metres. Very long ascent; recommended for experienced walkers who want solitude.

Fujinomiya Trail (south side): shortest distance to the summit, steepest terrain.

The official climbing season runs mid-July to early September. Outside this period the mountain huts are closed, the trails are unmaintained, and snow conditions require winter mountaineering equipment. Climbing outside the season is not illegal but genuinely dangerous; several people die on Fuji each year during off-season attempts.

What to Bring

The minimum: proper waterproof hiking boots (not trainers), waterproof jacket and trousers, insulating mid-layers (the summit temperature can be well below zero even in summer, and conditions change fast), headlamp with spare batteries, at least 2 litres of water (there are selling points at the mountain huts but they are expensive), high-energy snacks, sunscreen. The 5th Stations have gear shops but the selection is limited and prices are high.

Altitude sickness affects some climbers; spending a night at a 7th or 8th Station mountain hut breaks the ascent and reduces the risk significantly compared to the bullet climb approach.

Viewing Without Climbing

The most photographed Fuji view is from the Fuji Five Lakes area (Fujigoko), particularly Lake Kawaguchi. The reflection of the mountain in the lake on a clear morning, with autumn foliage or spring cherry blossoms in the frame, is the definitive image. The Chureito Pagoda above Fujiyoshida gives the other classic shot: red pagoda in the foreground, mountain behind.

Hakone, accessible by the Romancecar train from Shinjuku in 90 minutes, has Fuji views from Lake Ashi (when clouds allow) and from the Owakudani volcanic valley on the Hakone Ropeway. Hakone also has excellent onsen (hot spring baths) for recovery after any mountain activity.

Practical Notes

The 5th Stations are accessible by bus from Kawaguchiko, Gotemba, and Fujinomiya; no private vehicles are allowed on the road to 5th Station during the climbing season. Bus schedules are adjusted for early-morning departures to allow dawn summit arrivals.

Booking mountain huts in advance is essential for July and August; they are allocated by lottery through the Japan Tourism Agency system in peak periods. Costs are around 8,000-15,000 JPY per person including dinner and breakfast.