Mt Everest

Everest: The Mountain You Won’t Summit, and the Trek That’s Worth It Anyway

Everest at 8,849 metres is the highest point on earth, and the summit is reachable by non-professional climbers only through months of preparation, commercial expedition support, extensive acclimatisation, and approximately USD 50,000 to 100,000 in total costs. The summit attempt deaths receive international press when they occur; the summit does get climbed hundreds of times a year in good spring seasons, mostly by paying clients of commercial guiding companies.

For the vast majority of visitors, the objective is Everest Base Camp at 5,364 metres, reached by a 130-kilometre trek through the Khumbu Valley that typically takes 12 to 14 days including acclimatisation stops. This is not a casual hike, but it is accessible to any reasonably fit person who does the preparation and respects the altitude. About 40,000 trekkers attempt it each year.

The Trek

The standard approach flies into Lukla airport (elevation 2,860 metres; 527-metre runway on a steep hillside, one of the more demanding airports in commercial aviation) from Kathmandu in a 30-minute flight. From Lukla the trail follows the Dudh Kosi river north through Phakding, Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, Dingboche, and Lobuche to Gorak Shep, the last settlement before base camp.

Namche Bazaar (3,440 metres) is where most trekkers spend an acclimatisation day. It is a substantial Sherpa town with bakeries, decent coffee, gear shops, and a Saturday market. The Sherpa Culture Museum (sometimes called the Hillary Museum) covers the history of Sherpa mountaineering and the 1953 Tenzing-Hillary summit.

Tengboche monastery at 3,860 metres has a setting that manages to look better in person than in photographs, which is unusual. Ama Dablam is visible to the southeast; Everest appears over the Nuptse ridge to the north. The monastery hosts the Mani Rimdu festival in October or November depending on the lunar calendar.

Kala Patthar at 5,645 metres above Gorak Shep is the standard alternative viewpoint to base camp: the unobstructed view of Everest’s southwest face from here is better than from base camp itself, where the lateral moraine partly blocks the mountain.

Permits and Costs (2025-2026)

As of 2025, TIMS cards are no longer required for the Khumbu region. The two permits needed are the Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit (NPR 3,000, roughly USD 22) and the Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Permit (NPR 2,000). Total permit cost for foreign nationals is approximately USD 42. Both can be obtained at the trailhead or in Kathmandu.

From 2025, a licensed guide is compulsory for foreign trekkers visiting the Khumbu region. This is not onerous in practice – the tea house system is well established and experienced local guides add genuine value by knowing the terrain, the acclimatisation requirements, and the individual tea houses. Flights to Lukla cost around USD 200 to 300 from Kathmandu. Tea house accommodation runs NPR 500 to 1,500 per night; food adds NPR 500 to 2,000 per day.

Altitude and Safety

Acute Mountain Sickness above 3,000 metres is a real risk. The practical rule – ascend no more than 300 to 500 metres per day above 3,000 metres, include rest days, descend immediately if symptoms worsen – is well established and not to be treated as optional. HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Edema) and HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema) are life-threatening conditions that develop quickly and require immediate descent. The acclimatisation schedule built into standard 12 to 14 day itineraries exists for this reason.

Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) are the standard trekking windows. Monsoon (June through August) brings heavy rain, leeches, and reduced visibility. Winter is possible but cold and with fewer services.