Oahu

Oahu: Beyond Waikiki

Most visitors to Oahu stay in Waikiki and spend their time on the strip of beach between the hotels and the ocean. This is fine - the beach is real, the surf lessons work, and the sunsets are as good as advertised. But Oahu’s 597 square miles contain considerably more than that one stretch of south-shore sand, and staying on Waikiki without renting a car for at least one or two days means missing most of the island.

Pearl Harbor

The Pearl Harbor National Memorial site encompasses the USS Arizona Memorial, the Battleship Missouri, the Pacific Aviation Museum, and the submarine Bowfin. Arrive at the visitor centre before 08:30. The boat ride to the Arizona Memorial is free but requires a timed ticket (obtainable on the recreation.gov website or in person on the day, first-come-first-served). The Missouri and the Aviation Museum charge separately (around USD 27-30 each). The Arizona Memorial itself - the white structure spanning the submerged battleship hull - holds around 1,177 crew members still entombed in the hull below. It takes about 30 minutes on site; the boat ride and waiting time take longer.

The North Shore

The seven-mile stretch from Haleiwa to Sunset Beach contains the most famous surf breaks in the world. In summer (May-October), the water is calm and swimmable. In winter (November-April), swells of 15-30 feet arrive from the north Pacific and the beaches are often closed to swimmers. Professional surf competitions - the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing, the Eddie Aikau Invitational - run here November through January when conditions align.

Haleiwa town has changed from a fishing village to a tourist stop, but Giovanni’s shrimp truck on the main road still sells garlic butter shrimp from a graffiti-covered trailer for around USD 15 per plate. The shrimp farms nearby (visible from the road) supply the trucks.

Hiking: Diamond Head and Koko Head

Diamond Head State Monument (USD 5 per person entry, plus USD 10 parking) is a 40-minute hike to the rim of a volcanic tuff cone with 360-degree views over Waikiki and the Koolau Range. The tunnel sections require a torch; the final steel stairs are steep. Open daily from 06:00; arrive early to avoid the worst of the queue.

Koko Head Regional Park at the island’s southeastern tip involves climbing 1,048 railroad ties used for construction access during WW2 - the gradient is relentless. It takes 30-45 minutes up and the views are better than Diamond Head because you are facing the windward coast.

Hanauma Bay

Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve (USD 25 entry, advance reservation required, closed Tuesdays and sometimes Mondays) is a marine sanctuary in a volcanic bay where snorkelling among hundreds of tropical fish is almost guaranteed. The mandatory 10-minute video before entering covers the protected-area rules. Arrive early; reservations are released 60 days in advance at hanauma bay reservations.com.

Food

Poke - raw fish (typically tuna) cubed and dressed with soy sauce, sesame oil, and various additions - is the food for which Oahu is most credibly famous. Ono Seafood on Kapahulu Avenue charges USD 12-14 for a two-scoop poke bowl. It is one of the better versions in a city full of them.

Loco moco - rice, hamburger patty, fried egg, gravy - sounds wrong and tastes correct. It is served at dozens of diners; Cafe 100 on Kilauea Avenue in Hilo was the original but the concept has spread to every neighbourhood.

Getting around

TheHandy is the app for Oahu’s TheBus public transit system (USD 3 per ride, USD 7.50 day pass). It reaches most of the major sights without a car. Renting a car for one day to cover the North Shore and Windward Coast is worthwhile; driving Oahu’s H1 during rush hour (07:00-09:00, 16:00-18:30) is not.