Palace of Versailles
Versailles: How to Not Hate Your Day Trip
Three million people visit the Palace of Versailles every year. On a summer Tuesday, around 20,000 of them are doing it at the same time as you. The palace itself is extraordinary and worth the effort, but arriving unprepared means you will spend your afternoon in a queue and leave with sore feet and a poor opinion of Louis XIV.
Here is how to do it properly.
Getting There
Take the RER C train from Paris. From Gare d’Austerlitz, Saint-Michel, or Champ de Mars stations, the journey to Versailles Chateau-Rive Gauche takes about 35 minutes and costs around 4.60 euros each way. The station is a 10-minute walk from the main entrance. Ignore the private shuttles and tour buses that collect at Paris airports: they are slower and far more expensive.
Tickets
Book online through the official chateauversailles.fr site, not through third-party aggregators. As of January 2026, the palace raised its standard entry price: the main palace ticket now costs 35 euros for non-EEA visitors, with a 3-euro discount for nationals or residents of European Economic Area countries who can show proof of eligibility. The Passport ticket, which covers the Trianon estates and the Grand Parc including the Musical Fountains shows, is the smarter purchase on a Saturday or Sunday when the fountains are running. On a weekday it is less necessary.
The palace is closed Monday. The Musical Gardens and Musical Fountains shows run Saturday and Sunday afternoons from April through October, to a programme of baroque music. These are included in the Passport but cost extra with the standard ticket.
From May through September 2026, the Grand Trianon hosts a new exhibition, Gardens of the Enlightenment 1700-1800, covering the evolution of landscape gardens through nearly 160 works. If you have any interest in garden design history, it is worth planning your visit around it.
The Hall of Mirrors
Yes, it is spectacular. Seventy-three metres long, 357 mirrors, 20,000 candles’ worth of gold chandeliers. It was designed to project an image of French power at a time when France was genuinely the dominant force in European politics. The Treaty of Versailles ending the First World War was signed here in 1919, which adds a layer of history that the original Louis XIV would have found baffling.
Go early. The Hall fills by 10:30 on busy days. If you arrive at the 09:00 opening, you will have around 30 minutes of manageable crowds before it becomes uncomfortable.
Beyond the Main Palace
The Petit Trianon is where Marie Antoinette actually spent most of her time, and it is far more interesting than the formal palace rooms. She had it redecorated in a neoclassical style that was radical for its era, and behind it she built the Hameau de la Reine, a fake peasant hamlet with a working farm where she and her friends played at rural simplicity. The irony, given what happened in 1789, is considerable – and worth sitting with. There is a good argument that the Hameau tells you more about pre-revolutionary French court culture than anything in the state apartments.
The Hameau is around a 25-minute walk from the main palace through the gardens. Most tourists do not make it this far, which means you often have it nearly to yourself.
The Grand Canal is 1.6 km long and cuts through the formal gardens axis. In summer, rowboats hire for around 16 euros per hour from the Grand Canal boathouse. In winter, the gardens are often empty and blanketed in mist.
The Gardens: What Most People Miss
The formal gardens directly behind the palace are meticulously maintained and filled with statues and fountains. Beyond them, the Bosquets – a series of small enclosed garden rooms within the forest – are worth exploring. The Bosquet des Colonnes, the Bosquet du Marais, and the Bosquet de l’Encelade (with its half-submerged giant) each have their own character and are rarely crowded even on peak days.
Food
Eat before you come or bring food. The restaurants inside the estate are mediocre and expensive – 15 euros for a basic croque-monsieur at Angelina. The market in the town of Versailles, a 15-minute walk from the main gate in the opposite direction to the train station, has good produce and some decent food stalls. Alternatively, pack a picnic: eating on the Grand Canal lawn is one of the better things about a Versailles day. You will do this better than most of the people eating at the estate restaurants, for about a quarter of the cost.
When to Come
Avoid July and August on weekends. A midweek visit in May, September, or October gives you a substantially more peaceful experience. The late-October and November visits are underrated: crowds disappear, the trees are golden, and the fountain shows have ended.
A day in Versailles requires proper planning but repays it. The sheer ambition of the place – that a single monarch built what is essentially a small city to project his own magnificence – still registers when you stand at the far end of the Grand Canal and look back at the palace 1.6 km away. The scale is its own argument.