Papua New Guinea

Papua New Guinea Has More Languages Than Any Other Country on Earth. That Alone Is Worth Considering.

Over 800 languages are spoken in PNG, a country of around 9 million people on the eastern half of the world’s second-largest island. Many of these languages have fewer than a thousand speakers and have never been written down. The linguistic diversity reflects the extraordinary fragmentation of highland communities across terrain that has kept people separated – and culturally distinct – for millennia. This is not a statistic about exotic curiosity. It is the foundation of why PNG is genuinely different from anywhere else on earth and why visiting it is an experience without equivalents.

The security situation in Port Moresby is real and should be managed practically rather than dismissed. The capital has a consistent reputation for violent crime against visitors and residents. Most travellers who go for trekking, diving, or cultural events minimise time in Port Moresby: transit through quickly, stay in structured accommodation with security, and move on to their destination. This is good advice, not paranoia.

Kokoda Track

The Kokoda Track is a 96-kilometre walking trail through the Owen Stanley Range connecting PNG’s north and south coasts. Australian and Japanese forces fought over it between July and November 1942 in conditions of extreme difficulty. The modern trek takes 8 to 12 days depending on pace. It is not a bushwalk: it requires porters (mandatory for most trekkers, both for safety and because the fee structure supports local communities), physical conditioning in advance, and preparation for rain at any time of year.

Trekking agencies based in Port Moresby and Brisbane organise guided trips; costs run from approximately AUD 2,500 to 4,500 per person for a fully guided crossing. The historical weight is real – memorial sites, conversations with porters whose grandfathers carried supplies during the campaign, and village welcomes along the route combine into something specific to this place.

The Sepik River

The Sepik flows 1,100 kilometres from the highlands to the north coast through lowland forest and swamp. The communities along it produce some of the most distinctive carved and painted ritual objects in the Pacific tradition. The spirit houses (haus tambaran) continue to function as ceremonial spaces. Access is by small aircraft to Wewak or Ambunti, then motorised canoe. Itineraries of 5 to 10 days are typical. Domestic flights in PNG are expensive; this is the main cost constraint.

The Goroka and Mt Hagen Cultural Shows

The Goroka Show in September and the Mt Hagen Cultural Show in August are annual gatherings where highland peoples from across PNG come in traditional dress for singing and dance (sing-sing). These are genuine cultural events predating tourism, not performances staged for visitors. Hundreds of groups attend in bilum fibre dress, bird of paradise feather headdresses, and body paint. Tickets run USD 50 to 80; accommodation fills months in advance around show dates.

Practical Notes

Visas on arrival at Port Moresby’s Jacksons Airport cost approximately USD 50 to 100 for most nationalities. The kina (PGK) is the currency. Malaria prophylaxis is standard medical advice for coastal and lowland areas. Dry season (May through October) is the standard visiting period.