Papua New Guinea

Papua New Guinea: The Logistics Are Hard and That Is Partly the Point

Papua New Guinea occupies the eastern half of the world’s second-largest island plus a scattering of islands in the Bismarck and Solomon Seas. It has around 9 million people, over 800 languages (more than anywhere else on earth by some counts), extremely limited road infrastructure outside of the Highlands Highway, and a tourism industry that serves a fraction of the visitors that neighbouring countries receive. The comparison with Bali or Thailand is irrelevant and the attempt to make it causes confusion. PNG is its own thing.

The security situation in Port Moresby and some provincial towns is genuine and consistently cited by travellers as the most significant practical barrier. The capital has a reputation for violent crime against visitors and residents alike. This is not exaggerated. Most visitors who go for the culture, diving, or trekking minimise time in Port Moresby, routing through quickly, or stay in structured accommodation with security.

Kokoda Track

The Kokoda Track is a 96-kilometre walking trail through the Owen Stanley Range connecting the north and south coasts of Papua New Guinea. Australian and Japanese forces fought over it between July and November 1942 in conditions of extreme difficulty. The terrain is technically demanding – steep, muddy, dense jungle at altitude – and the trail itself follows close to the original wartime route.

The modern trek takes 8-12 days depending on pace and conditions. It is not a bushwalk: it is a serious expedition requiring porters (mandatory for most trekkers, both for safety and because the fee structure supports local communities), physical conditioning, and preparation for rain at any time of year. Trekking agencies based in Port Moresby and Brisbane organise guided trips; costs run from around $2,500-4,500 AUD per person for a fully guided and supported crossing. Doing it independently without a guide is possible but strongly discouraged by PNG authorities.

The historical weight of the track is real. The memorial sites, the conversations with porters whose grandfathers carried supplies during the campaign, and the village welcomes along the route combine into something that is specific to this place and not reproducible elsewhere.

The Sepik River

The Sepik is one of the longest rivers in the Pacific region, flowing 1,100 kilometres from the highlands to the north coast through lowland forest and swamp. The communities along the Sepik produce some of the most distinctive carved and painted ritual objects in the Pacific tradition. The tradition is not historical; it is ongoing. The spirit houses (haus tambaran) in Sepik villages continue to function as ceremonial spaces.

Access to the Sepik is by small aircraft to Wewak or Ambunti, followed by motorised canoe along the river and its tributaries. Itineraries of 5-10 days are typical for a substantive journey into the river system. Accommodation ranges from village homestays to small lodges; standards vary and the experience is remote. The cost of getting there and back is the main constraint: domestic flights in PNG are expensive relative to the infrastructure, and fuel for river transport adds up.

Tufi and the Fjords

Tufi, on the northern coast of the Oro Province, is a peninsula with a series of flooded river valleys that create an unusual fjord landscape at sea level. The underwater environment around Tufi is among the best diving in the Pacific, with excellent coral health and the possibility of seeing pygmy seahorses, ghost pipefish, and a range of nudibranchs that attract serious macro photographers. The Tufi Dive Resort operates diving and village-based cultural programmes.

Access is by scheduled flight from Port Moresby on Air Niugini (approximately 1 hour). The resort is the primary operator and manages most visitor activity in the area.

Highlands Cultural Shows

The Goroka Show in September and the Mt Hagen Cultural Show in August are annual gatherings where highland peoples from across PNG come together in traditional dress for singing and dance (sing-sing). These events attract hundreds of groups performing in traditional bilum fibre dress, bird of paradise feather headdresses, and body paint. They are genuine cultural events that long predate tourism, not performances staged for visitors, though the tourist interest is now significant. Seats at the shows run $50-80 USD; accommodation in Goroka or Mt Hagen fills up months in advance around show dates.

Practical Notes

Visas are required for most nationalities and can be obtained on arrival at Port Moresby’s Jacksons Airport for a fee of around $50-100 USD. The kina (PGK) is the currency; exchange rates are available at the airport. Credit cards are accepted at larger hotels; cash is necessary for most other transactions.

The wet season runs December through April; the dry season May through October is the standard visiting period. Malaria is present in coastal and lowland areas; prophylaxis is standard medical advice. Healthcare facilities outside Port Moresby and Lae are limited.