Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio
Manuel Antonio: Costa Rica’s Smallest Park With the Longest Queues
Manuel Antonio National Park covers just 1,625 hectares, making it the smallest in Costa Rica. It also receives around 150,000 visitors a year, which works out to a lot of people on relatively few trails. None of this should put you off going, but it should affect how you plan.
The Park
The trail network is simple: three main beaches connected by coastal paths through lowland rainforest. Playa Espadilla Sur is the first beach inside the park entrance, a long arc of sand with gentle surf. Playa Manuel Antonio is 20 minutes further into the park and generally considered the best: calmer water, good snorkelling in the rocky sections to the south, and a tombolo (a sandbar connecting to a small peninsula) that creates a second small bay.
Playa Gemelas is the quietest option, reached by a slightly longer trail. Worth the extra 10 minutes if the main beaches are packed.
Wildlife is the main reason people come. Squirrel monkeys, white-faced capuchins, three-toed sloths, coatis, and iguanas are reliably present and largely unafraid of humans. This is partly wonderful and partly a management problem: the animals have been fed by visitors for decades and some capuchins actively steal food from bags. Keep zippers closed.
The park closes on Tuesdays. Opens at 7am; the ticket office fills by mid-morning. Capacity is capped at 1,500 visitors per day and tickets sell out, particularly on weekends. Book online at sinac.go.cr at least a few days ahead. Entry costs around $18 USD for adults.
A guide is worth having. The density of wildlife on the main trail from entrance to Playa Manuel Antonio is high, but animals camouflage well. A guide finds sloths, snakes, and frogs that you would walk past. Guides are available at the entrance (around $25-35 per person for a 3-hour tour) or can be arranged through your hotel.
Quepos and the Local Scene
Quepos, 7km north of the park entrance, is the nearest town. It has a marina (Marina Pez Vela), supermarkets, pharmacies, and a more lived-in feel than the hotel strip immediately outside the park. Fishing tours, dolphin-watching boats, and sunset cruises all depart from the marina.
El Avion on the road into the park occupies a former C-123 military aircraft (the fuselage is the bar). The seafood is genuinely good and the setting is odd enough to justify the visit. Mains around ¢15,000-22,000 CRC.
Soda El Rancho in Quepos proper does casado (rice, beans, salad, protein) for around ¢4,000. This is how Costa Ricans eat lunch and it’s substantially better value than anywhere on the tourist strip.
Staying
Tulemar Bungalows is the luxury choice: private bungalows with ocean views on a hillside between Quepos and the park. The property has its own beaches accessible via a shuttle. Rates from $350/night in season.
Costa Verde Hotel is mid-range and has good views from the pool. Two Boeing 727 fuselages on the property have been converted into suites, which is either appealing or alarming depending on your temperament.
For budget options, the backpacker hostels in Quepos are clean and well-run. La Cantina hotel in central Quepos is reliable.
Practical Notes
The park road from Quepos passes through a hotel strip where parking fills fast. Take a taxi from Quepos (¢3,000-4,000 CRC) or book a hotel with shuttle service.
The wet season (May-November) brings afternoon rain and lower prices. The dry season (December-April) is peak tourism with better beach conditions but higher costs and more competition for park entry. The park exists year-round regardless of season.