Potala Palace, Lhasa

Potala Palace: Lhasa’s Defining Monument and Its Complicated Context

The Potala Palace stands on Red Mountain (Marpo Ri) in Lhasa at 3,763 metres above sea level, rising another 117 metres above the surrounding city. It is 13 storeys tall, contains approximately 1,000 rooms, 10,000 shrines, and about 200,000 statues. The White Palace (eastern section) was the administrative and residential wing; the Red Palace (central) is the religious heart, containing chapels, stupas housing the remains of past Dalai Lamas, and a library of scriptures. It is one of the most impressive buildings in Asia by any metric.

It is also a contested place, administered by the People’s Republic of China as a state museum, with religious activity permitted but regulated, and accessible to foreign visitors only through the Tibet Travel Permit system. The 14th Dalai Lama, who fled Lhasa in 1959 during the Tibetan uprising, has not been able to return. The political dimensions of visiting are not separable from the experience of the place.

(See also the Lhasa entry in this series for full entry requirements and permit logistics.)

The Palace Structure

The Potala was originally built by Songtsen Gampo in the 7th century CE; the current structure dates primarily from the 17th century, when the 5th Dalai Lama rebuilt and greatly expanded it. Subsequent Dalai Lamas added chapels, stupas, and refinements through the 19th century. The murals inside date from multiple periods and cover walls in every major room.

The White Palace: the eastern portion houses the Dalai Lama’s former apartments (the 14th’s rooms are preserved as he left them in 1959), the throne room, and administrative chambers. The scale of the main assembly hall is striking; the Golden Throne gives a sense of the political as well as religious authority the Dalai Lamas embodied.

The Red Palace: the central section contains eight stupas holding the embalmed remains of eight Dalai Lamas (the 6th Dalai Lama is absent; his relationship with the institution was complicated). The chapels are lit primarily by butter lamps; the air is thick with incense and the dimness makes the gilded statues and painted walls difficult to see clearly. Bring a small flashlight if permitted, or allow time for your eyes to adjust.

The roof terraces: the views of Lhasa, the Kyichu River valley, and the surrounding mountains are what all photographs of the palace are designed to show from the outside. From the palace roof looking out, you see the city spreading away in every direction and understand why this hilltop was chosen for the capital’s defining structure.

Visiting

Tickets are required and numbers are strictly capped per day. Booking in advance through a registered Tibetan travel agency (the only legal way for foreign visitors to travel in Tibet) is the practical approach; the agency handles all permit and ticket logistics.

Photography is permitted in parts of the palace but restricted in others; follow the posted signs carefully. Photography of specific political or religious imagery may attract attention from security personnel.

The visit involves significant climbing on steep internal staircases with low ceilings in some sections. The altitude (Lhasa is at 3,650 metres, the palace adds further elevation) makes exertion feel harder than at sea level. Allow a full morning at minimum.

Around the Palace

The Potala is at the western end of Lhasa; Jokhang Temple and Barkhor Street are about 2 kilometres to the east. The park at the base of the palace (Zongjiao Lukang Park) is a Lhasa social space where residents walk and practise traditional dances in the mornings.

Norbulingka, the former summer palace of the Dalai Lamas to the west of the city, is a more intimate complex set in gardens and is less visited than the Potala. The rooms here were used from May to October; the architecture is less imposing but the garden setting is pleasant.

The Altitude

Everyone coming to Lhasa from lower elevations needs to acclimatise. Headache, fatigue, and breathlessness are normal in the first 24-48 hours. Serious symptoms (vomiting, confusion, difficulty walking) require descent. Plan your first day as a rest day; the altitude at the palace roof level is notable even for those who have spent two days adjusting to Lhasa itself.