Sagarmatha National Park Nepal

Sagarmatha National Park: Planning the Everest Base Camp Trek

Sagarmatha National Park covers 1,148 sq km of northeastern Nepal, from the Dudh Koshi river valley up to the summit of Everest at 8,849m. The park entry fee is USD 30 (collected at Monjo gate after the flight to Lukla). A TIMS card costs USD 20 and is obtained in Kathmandu. These are not optional. Budget a full day in Kathmandu for permits before flying to Lukla.

The Lukla flight

Tenzing-Hillary Airport in Lukla has a runway that slopes uphill and ends at a cliff edge. It is consistently rated the most dangerous commercial airport in the world. Flights operate in morning weather windows (usually 06:00-10:00) and cancel frequently. If you have a fixed return flight from Kathmandu, build two or three buffer days at the end for delays. Flights from Ramechhap airstrip, 4 hours east of Kathmandu, are sometimes used to reduce air traffic; check which departure point your operator uses.

The route to Everest Base Camp

The standard EBC trek from Lukla takes 12-14 days return, including two acclimatisation rest days at Namche Bazaar (3,440m) and one more at Dingboche (4,410m). The route gains altitude gradually: Lukla (2,860m), Namche (3,440m), Tengboche (3,860m), Dingboche (4,410m), Lobuche (4,940m), Gorak Shep (5,164m), Base Camp (5,364m).

The acclimatisation days are not optional extras. Acute Mountain Sickness progresses to High Altitude Pulmonary Oedema or Cerebral Oedema if you push through warning symptoms. The Himalayan Rescue Association staffs a medical clinic in Namche and Pheriche.

Tengboche Monastery, at 3,860m on a ridge above the Imja Khola valley, has daily puja ceremonies at around 06:00 and 18:00 that are open to visitors. The view of Ama Dablam (6,812m) from the monastery is one of the most repeatedly photographed mountain views in the world. Spend time in Namche rather than passing through quickly - the Saturday market draws traders from Tibet and surrounding villages.

Alternative: Gokyo Lakes

The Gokyo valley branches west from Dole, bypassing Base Camp entirely. The route climbs to Gokyo village (4,750m) beside a chain of glacial lakes, then up Gokyo Ri (5,357m) for a 360-degree view that includes four 8000m peaks - Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu simultaneously. The Three Passes trek connects Gokyo with the EBC route via the Cho La pass (5,420m), a full day of glacier terrain and steep moraine requiring crampons in icy conditions.

Teahouses

The teahouse network along both routes has improved considerably since 2015. Above Namche expect dormitory rooms or basic doubles costing NPR 500-1000 per night (under USD 10), with meals at around NPR 700-1200 each. The food becomes more expensive and less varied as you gain altitude. Dal bhat - rice, lentil soup, and vegetable curry with unlimited refills - is the best nutrition-to-cost option on the trail and the meal that every Sherpa recommends.

Boil or treat all water. The high altitude solar panels that power some lodges are less reliable than advertised in overcast weather.

Best timing

October and November give the clearest skies and most stable weather. March through May is also popular, with rhododendrons in bloom on the lower slopes. Monsoon runs June through September - the trails are passable but the views are frequently obscured. December and February see very cold temperatures above 4,000m but empty trails.