St. Alexander Newski Cathedral, Sofia

The Alexander Nevsky Cathedral Was Built to Thank Russia for Ending Ottoman Rule in Bulgaria

Completed in 1912 and built to commemorate the Russian soldiers who died in the Russo-Turkish War of 1877 to 1878 – the conflict that ended 500 years of Ottoman control over Bulgaria – the cathedral is named after the 13th-century Russian prince canonised by the Russian Orthodox Church. The dedication reflects the political significance of Russia in Bulgaria’s liberation narrative, a relationship that remains complicated in the contemporary context.

The green copper domes are the most visible element of Sofia’s skyline. The cathedral holds around 5,000 people and is one of the largest Orthodox cathedrals in the world by capacity. Entry to the main building is free.

Inside

The interior is the main event: walls and ceilings covered with frescoes by Russian and Bulgarian artists, enormous chandeliers, the constant smell of incense. Services are held regularly; attending one – dressed appropriately, standing, following the Orthodox liturgy – gives a different perspective than a standard tourist visit.

The crypt beneath the cathedral houses the National Icon Gallery, a collection of medieval Bulgarian religious art from the 9th to 19th centuries. Entry is BGN 6 (approximately EUR 3). It is consistently undervisited and contains remarkable work – the iconographic tradition that developed in Bulgaria during the medieval period is distinct from Russian and Greek Orthodox art.

The Square and Surrounding Area

The open square in front of the cathedral hosts a flea market most days: Soviet-era memorabilia, old coins, military insignia, and icons of varying authenticity. The browsing is pleasant regardless.

Sofia Beyond the Cathedral

Sofia is increasingly worth two days. The Serdica Archaeological Complex beneath the central metro station and hotel district revealed 2nd to 4th century Roman ruins during construction in the 1970s – well-lit and accessible underground. The Banya Bashi Mosque (1566) on Maria Luisa Boulevard is the only functioning mosque in central Sofia, built over the city’s natural hot springs.

Sofia is one of the cheapest capitals in Europe. A full meal at a mehana (traditional tavern) costs BGN 15 to 25 per person with drinks. The Sofia Metro is efficient and cheap (BGN 1.60 per trip). Central Sofia is walkable; the cathedral, the National Palace of Culture, and the main shopping street (Vitosha Boulevard) are all within a 20-minute walk of each other.