Tu Sua, Samoa

The To Sua Ocean Trench Is 30 Metres Deep and You Get There via a Wooden Ladder Bolted to the Cliff Face

That is the honest description of the To Sua Ocean Trench, and the honest description is also the appeal. This natural swimming hole on the south coast of Upolu Island in Samoa consists of a massive freshwater pool fed by underground springs, descending approximately 30 metres, connected to the ocean by underwater channels where saltwater and freshwater meet. The ladder down is steep and the pool is enclosed by volcanic rock walls with tropical vegetation cascading from above. It is one of the stranger and more beautiful natural swimming environments in the Pacific.

Entry costs around 5 to 10 Samoan tala per person, making it accessible. Most visitors are on day trips from Apia, the capital, about 25 kilometres west along the south coast.

The South Coast of Upolu

The village of Lotofaga, where To Sua is located, sits on a coastline that runs west to Apia through a series of small fishing villages, coconut plantations, and black-sand beaches. The drive along the south coast road is itself worth doing slowly.

The beach at Tu Sua has white sand and calm lagoon water. The nearby Piula Cave Pool, a collapsed cave at the coast used by the local Methodist theological college, offers a fresher alternative for swimming. Giant clams are visible in the shallower areas.

Getting There and Staying

Getting to Samoa requires international flights through Faleolo Airport near Apia, with connections from Auckland (3 hours), Sydney (4 hours), Fiji, and Los Angeles. Apia has a range of accommodation from budget guesthouses to mid-range hotels. The Taumeasina Island Resort is the most resort-style property near the capital, with bungalows in gardens and beach access. For something more affordable, the south coast has several family-run fale guesthouses where staying in an open-sided traditional building on the beach costs around USD 60 to 100 per night including meals.

Samoa operates on a fa’asamoa (Samoan way of life) that values community customs, Sunday rest, and formal protocols in villages. Ask before photographing people, dress conservatively away from beaches, and observe Sunday quiet – most shops and restaurants in villages close for church and family time.

The Rest of Samoa

Robert Louis Stevenson moved to Samoa in 1890 and died there in 1894; his home, Vailima, above Apia is now a museum. He asked to be buried at the summit of Mount Vaea behind the house, and his tomb is reachable by a 45-minute steep trail through the forest. Samoa has the distinction of being among the few places in the world where a major literary figure chose to end his life voluntarily. The grave has views over Apia and the ocean.