Tubbataha Reef

Tubbataha Reef: Remote Philippine Atoll

Tubbataha Reefs Natural Park sits in the middle of the Sulu Sea, 150km southeast of Puerto Princesa on Palawan, Philippines. It consists of two atolls — North and South — rising from ocean depths of 900 metres. The surrounding waters are among the most biodiverse marine environments in the Pacific: the park contains 600 fish species, 360 coral species, 11 shark species, and significant populations of manta rays, sea turtles, and cetaceans. The remoteness that makes access difficult is what makes the reef system intact.

The park is UNESCO-listed and manages access strictly. No permanent accommodation exists on the atolls. All visitors arrive by liveaboard dive boat from Puerto Princesa. The season runs from mid-March to mid-June — the window when the Sulu Sea is navigable and the visibility in the water is highest, typically 20-30 metres. Outside this period the area is off-limits.

The Diving

Tubbataha is a technical diving destination as much as a recreational one: the walls drop dramatically, the currents are strong and variable, and several of the best sites are not accessible to beginners. The North Atoll’s Jessie Beazley Reef has the most consistent shark sightings; whitetip, blacktip, grey reef, thresher, and hammerhead sharks are all present depending on the site and time of day. The South Atoll’s Bird Islet has the largest seabird population in the Philippines on the surface and dense schools of barracuda and giant trevally below.

Diving conditions require attention to tidal timing. The park rangers stationed at both atolls control access and enforce the strict no-take, no-touch rules. Any physical contact with coral results in removal from the site.

Getting There

Puerto Princesa is served by flights from Manila (about 1 hour), Cebu, and other Philippine cities. Liveaboard operators based in Puerto Princesa run trips of 5-10 nights, depending on how many dive sites they include. The crossing to Tubbataha takes 10-14 hours each way depending on sea conditions and vessel speed.

Liveaboard costs run approximately $2,000-4,000 USD per person for a standard trip, covering accommodation, all meals, and unlimited diving. The park entry fee is paid separately at around $150 USD per person. Operators must book park permits months in advance through the Tubbataha Management Office; this is a fixed capacity system and trips do fill up. Planning 6-12 months ahead is advisable for March-April slots, which book fastest.

Reputable operators include Stella Maris Dive Boats, Philippine Siren, and several international liveaboard operators that run annual Tubbataha circuits. Verifying that an operator holds a valid Tubbataha permit before booking is essential; some less scrupulous operations have operated without proper permits.