Valley of the Kings

Valley of the Kings: What Nobody Tells You Before You Go

The west bank of the Nile at Luxor is one of those places where the reality matches the hype, but only if you understand what you’re actually looking at. Over 60 tombs cut into a limestone valley, used for nearly 500 years from around 1550 BC. The location wasn’t random: the valley is flanked by a peak naturally shaped like a pyramid, which the ancient Egyptians found appropriate.

The Ticketing System (Read This First)

The standard ticket gets you into three tombs of your choice. Tutankhamun’s tomb (KV62) costs extra, currently around 300 Egyptian pounds on top of the base entrance fee. Seti I’s tomb (KV17) costs significantly more, around 1,000 EGP, and is generally considered worth it for serious visitors. Ramesses VI (KV9) is included in the standard ticket and has some of the most complete painted ceilings in the valley.

Photography inside most tombs costs 300 EGP for a camera permit. Decide in advance whether you want it.

The Tombs Worth Seeing

KV62 (Tutankhamun): The smallest royal tomb in the valley, which partly explains how it survived intact. The mummy is still there, in the outer sarcophagus. The famous treasures are in the Egyptian Museum in Cairo, not here. The tomb is surprisingly modest; it matters for what it represents rather than its scale.

KV9 (Ramesses VI): One of the largest and best-preserved. The Book of the Gates painted on the ceiling corridors is extraordinary. This is the tomb to see if you only have time for one included in the standard ticket.

KV17 (Seti I): 120 metres of decorated corridors going deeper into the rock than anything else in the valley. The paintings retain real colour. The premium price is justified.

KV11 (Ramesses III): Included in the standard ticket and genuinely large. The side chambers have unusual painted scenes showing foreign captives and royal storerooms.

Getting There and Around

The Valley of the Kings is on the west bank of the Nile, opposite Luxor. The main options are: taxi from Luxor (negotiate a half-day rate, roughly 300-400 EGP), a hired bicycle if you’re comfortable with the crossing and a 5km ride, or joining an organised group tour.

The electric tram inside the valley runs between the entrance and the main cluster of tombs. Take it in; walk back if you want to see the smaller outlying tombs.

Where to Eat Nearby

Sofra Restaurant on Mohamed Farid Street in Luxor is the standard recommendation for Egyptian food and earns it. Try the ful medames and the kofta.

Avoid eating at the valley itself. The facilities are minimal and overpriced.

Where to Stay

Luxor has a range from the historic Winter Palace (Corniche el Nil, rates from around £150/night) to budget options on the east bank near the train station. Nefertiti Hotel is reliably cheap and clean, favoured by backpackers for years.

Timing

October to early April is the sensible window. Summer temperatures in the valley regularly exceed 40°C and the tombs themselves stay warm from all the bodies passing through. Arrive when the site opens at 6am, before the tour buses. By 10am it gets uncomfortable in every sense.