West Norwegian Fjords – Geirangerfjord and Nærøyfjord

Geirangerfjord and Nærøyfjord: Norway’s Two Most Dramatic Fjords

Both fjords are UNESCO World Heritage-listed, both are spectacular, and they’re different enough in character to justify visiting both if you’re making the trip to western Norway.

Geirangerfjord

Geirangerfjord runs about 15km inland from the coastal mountains, with cliffs rising up to 1,400 metres on each side. The waterfalls are the famous feature: the Seven Sisters (seven separate streams in parallel on the south wall), the Suitor (opposite, supposedly courting the sisters), and the Bridal Veil (partially hidden behind a rock face). From a cruise ship or ferry, you see all three on a single passage.

The village of Geiranger at the inner end is small — around 200 permanent residents — with several hotels and restaurants built to handle the summer cruise crowds. The Geirangerfjord Centre has a solid exhibition on the fjord’s ecology and the history of the farms that clung to the cliffsides. Flydalsjuvet is the classic viewpoint: a jutting rock platform above the village with the fjord below and the cruise ships looking miniature. The road up to Dalsnibba (1,476 metres) extends the view to the Snøhetta massif and multiple glacier tongues on a clear day.

Kayaking the fjord is quiet, close, and thoroughly recommended if the weather cooperates. Several operators in Geiranger rent kayaks and run guided tours. The waterfalls are best approached by water.

Nærøyfjord

Nærøyfjord is narrower — 250 metres at its tightest point — and feels more enclosed. The cliffs press in from both sides and small farms on the ledges above the water level are barely visible without binoculars. Flåm, at its eastern end, is the main village and the terminus of the Flåmsbana railway.

The Flåmsbana is 20km of narrow gauge railway climbing from sea level to 867 metres at Myrdal, with gradients up to 5.5% and a stop at the Kjosfossen waterfall. The engineering required is considerable; the views through the windows are good. It connects to the Bergen Railway at Myrdal, which makes Oslo-Bergen or Bergen-Flåm sensible routes. The train itself is crowded but worth it.

Undredal, accessible by car (a very narrow road) or kayak from Flåm, is a village of around 80 people known for producing a small-batch brown goat cheese (brunost). The stave church there dates from the 12th century and is the smallest in Norway. The goat cheese is sold at a farm shop and is better than it looks.

Getting Between the Two

The two fjords are not adjacent but can reasonably be combined in a 3–4 day trip using ferries, buses (the Norway in a Nutshell route), or a rental car. Bergen (2.5 hours by car from Flåm) makes a good base at either end. Ålesund (2 hours from Geiranger) is the northern entry point, with a small international airport.

The peak season is June through August. May and September are less crowded, marginally cheaper, and the light in September is particularly good in the late afternoon. Expect rain in any season; a waterproof layer is not optional.