Yakushima

Yakushima: Japan’s Ancient Forest Island

Yakushima is a UNESCO World Heritage island off the southern tip of Kyushu, and it’s unlike anything else in Japan. About 20% of the island is covered by old-growth cedar forest, including trees well over 1,000 years old. The oldest, the Jomon Sugi, is estimated to be between 2,170 and 7,200 years old (the range is wide because scientists disagree). Standing beside it feels less like visiting a tree and more like visiting a geological feature.

The island receives more rain than almost anywhere in Japan — local guides joke that it “rains 35 days a month.” Everything is consequently very green, very mossy, and quite atmospheric. It is also frequently foggy, which suits the cedars well and creates good photographs even on grey days.

The Main Hike: Jomon Sugi

The trail to Jomon Sugi is roughly 21km return from the Arakawa Trailhead and takes most people 8–10 hours. You start by walking several kilometres along an old narrow-gauge railway track through forest, which is flat but longer than it looks on a map. The tree itself is behind a viewing platform — you can’t touch it — but the approach through the cedar and cryptomeria forest is the real experience.

Access to the Arakawa Trailhead is restricted from March to November: you must take a shuttle bus from Yakusugi Land or Yaku-sugi Land parking area, or stay at a mountain hut. Get to the bus stop by 5am if you want to start early, which you should — the trail gets busy by mid-morning.

Shiratani Unsuikyo Ravine

This is a shorter alternative to the Jomon Sugi trail and better for people with limited time. Several loop options run from one to three hours through moss-covered forest with suspension bridges and small waterfalls. Many people recognise the landscape from Studio Ghibli’s Princess Mononoke, which Miyazaki reportedly visited for research. Whether or not that changes the experience depends on you.

Wildlife

Yakushima has its own subspecies of macaque (Yakushima macaque) and sika deer, both of which are endemic. The deer are completely unbothered by people and will wander through town, along trails, and occasionally through campsites. The macaques are bolder than you’d hope — don’t bring food out on the trail.

Where to Eat and Stay

Miyanoura is the main port and has the most services. Several izakayas serve fresh local fish, including flying fish (tobio), which is a regional specialty, often grilled whole. There are noodle shops open for lunch that cost around 800–1,200 yen per meal.

Traditional ryokans around Yakusugi Land and Anbo town offer a proper onsen experience after a long hike. Budget travellers will find guesthouses from around 3,500–5,000 yen per night; mid-range ryokans with meals run 10,000–18,000 yen.

Getting There

Ferries run from Kagoshima: a high-speed Toppy hydrofoil takes about 90 minutes (around 8,000 yen one-way); the slower car ferry takes four hours but costs roughly half as much and lets you bring a bike. There is also a small airport with connections to Kagoshima and Osaka, but flights are expensive and weather cancellations are common.

Bring rain gear regardless of when you visit, and pack proper hiking boots — the cedar roots on the trails are slippery.