Yakushima

Yakushima: A Tree Estimated at Up to 7,200 Years Old and an Island That Rains 35 Days a Month

The Jomon Sugi, the oldest cedar on Yakushima, is estimated to be between 2,170 and 7,200 years old – scientists disagree on the methodology and the range is genuinely that wide. Standing beside it requires a 21-kilometre return walk through ancient forest, and the tree itself is behind a viewing platform to protect the root system. You cannot touch it. You look at it from a deck. This is the right call and does not diminish the experience of reaching something that may have been alive before Rome was founded.

Yakushima is a UNESCO World Heritage island off the southern tip of Kyushu, Japan. About 20 percent of the island is old-growth cedar forest. It receives more rain than almost anywhere in Japan – local guides joke that it rains 35 days a month. Everything is consequently very green, very mossy, and atmospheric in a way that suits the cedar forest and produces good photographs even on grey days.

The Jomon Sugi Trail

About 21 kilometres return from the Arakawa Trailhead, taking most fit walkers 8 to 10 hours. You begin by walking several kilometres along an old narrow-gauge railway track through forest – flat but longer than it looks on the map. The approach through the cedar and cryptomeria forest is the real experience; the tree at the end is the destination, but the walk is the point.

Access to the Arakawa Trailhead is restricted from March through November: you must take a shuttle bus from the parking area or stay at a mountain hut. Get to the bus stop by 5am if you want an early start, which you should. The trail gets genuinely busy by mid-morning.

Shiratani Unsuikyo Ravine

A shorter alternative, better for people with limited time. Several loop options run from one to three hours through moss-covered forest with suspension bridges and small waterfalls. Many people recognise the landscape from Studio Ghibli’s Princess Mononoke; Hayao Miyazaki reportedly visited the forest for research. Whether or not that changes the experience for you is a personal matter. The forest is beautiful regardless.

Wildlife

Yakushima has its own subspecies of macaque (Yakushima macaque) and sika deer, both endemic to the island. The deer are completely unbothered by humans and will wander through town, trails, and campsites. The macaques are bolder than you want them to be around food. Do not bring visible food on the trail.

Where to Stay and Eat

Miyanoura is the main port with the most services. Izakayas serve fresh local fish including flying fish (tobio), a regional specialty grilled whole. Traditional ryokans around Yakusugi Land and Anbo town have onsen baths that make significant sense after a 10-hour hike. Budget guesthouses run around JPY 3,500 to 5,000 per night; mid-range ryokans with meals run JPY 10,000 to 18,000.

Getting There

Ferries from Kagoshima: the high-speed Toppy hydrofoil takes about 90 minutes (around JPY 8,000 one-way). The slower car ferry takes four hours at roughly half the price. A small airport exists with connections to Kagoshima and Osaka, but flights are expensive and weather cancellations are common. Bring rain gear regardless of season and proper hiking boots; the cedar roots on the trails are slippery.