Zermatt

Zermatt: The Complete Guide to the Village Beneath the Matterhorn

There is one reason Zermatt exists as the world famously knows it, and it is the most photogenic mountain on earth. The Matterhorn, or Mont Cervin, or Il Cervino depending which side of the border you stand on, is a 4,478-metre pyramid of dark gneiss that rises almost impossibly clean from its glacier-cradled base. It has a flank for every hour of the day and a profile for every weather. On a still winter morning it stands in perfect mirror reflection on the Riffelsee lake. On a summer evening it catches the last light on its east face and glows rose-pink for ten minutes while guests at every terrace in Zermatt put down their forks and watch. The village below lives for the mountain, for the skiers and hikers and mountaineers who come to climb it, ski beneath it, photograph it, or simply sit and stare. Zermatt is car-free by law (only electric taxis and service vehicles run on its streets), is reached only by train or on foot, and preserves a traditional Valaisian alpine character amid some of Europe’s most serious ski-and-mountain infrastructure.

This guide is for travellers who want Zermatt beyond the postcard: the sights and viewpoints, the mountain railways, the skiing and hiking, the food, the practical logistics, and the wider Swiss Alps as a jump-off.

A Short History

Zermatt was a tiny farming and mountain-pasture village until the 1855 first ascent of the Dufourspitze (Monte Rosa) and the notorious 1865 first ascent of the Matterhorn by Edward Whymper. Four of the seven climbers died on the descent, and the tragedy made the village internationally famous overnight. The Gornergrat railway opened in 1898. By the 20th century, Zermatt had become one of the world’s great mountain resorts, hosting Nordic races, film sets, and a steady stream of climbers, skiers, and sightseers. Today the village numbers around 5,800 residents and welcomes close to two million overnight stays a year.

The Essential Sights

The Matterhorn. See it from the Kirchplatz at the centre of the village, from the old Hinterdorf hamlet with its slate-roofed wooden grain-stores on stilts, and from the stone bridge over the Vispa. At dawn, the east face catches first light; sunset lights the north and west walls. The Matterhorn Glacier Paradise station behind the peak offers the most dramatic close-up.

Gornergrat Bahn. The 1898 cog railway climbs 1,469 metres in 33 minutes from Zermatt (1,608 m) to Gornergrat (3,089 m). At the top, a 360-degree panorama of 29 four-thousand-metre peaks including the Matterhorn, Dufourspitze (Switzerland’s highest), and the vast Gorner Glacier. The observatory on top has a small astronomy exhibit. Clear mornings are best.

Matterhorn Glacier Paradise. The highest cable-car station in Europe, reached by a series of gondolas and cable cars to 3,883 m, with views north into Switzerland and south into Italy, a glacier palace (ice-cave tunnels cut into the glacier), and Europe’s highest mountain restaurant. A new Alpine Crossing (completed 2023) allows you to ride cable cars directly from Zermatt all the way to Cervinia in Italy.

Rothorn and Sunnegga. Two more mountain stations accessed from the other side of the village, with the Rothorn aerial tramway topping out at 3,103 m. Great views of the Matterhorn and the starting points for many hikes.

Matterhorn Museum (Matterhorn Zermatlantis). A subterranean museum in the village telling the story of alpine farming, the 1865 first ascent, and the subsequent development of mountaineering. The knotted rope that broke during the 1865 descent is displayed, as is the grave of one of the climbers in the nearby cemetery.

Mountaineer’s Cemetery. In the churchyard of St Mauritius on the main street, with gravestones of more than 50 mountaineers who died climbing the Matterhorn and surrounding peaks. Sobering and beautiful.

Hinterdorf. The oldest quarter of Zermatt, a cluster of 16th-18th century wooden Stadel grain stores and huts on staddle stones to keep rodents out. Free to wander.

Riffelsee. A small mountain tarn on the Riffelberg, famous for its still-water reflection of the Matterhorn. Reach it by a short walk from the Rotenboden stop on the Gornergrat railway.

Stellisee. Another lake with a classic Matterhorn reflection, reached by a walk from Blauherd on the Sunnegga-Rothorn gondola.

Gorner Gorge (Gornerschlucht). A narrow turquoise-water gorge with wooden walkways, a 20-minute walk from the village.

Kleines Matterhorn summit. The Matterhorn Glacier Paradise station’s viewing platform is the highest accessible point in the Alps by cable car.

Zermatt village. Stroll the Bahnhofstrasse with its watchmaker and chocolatier shops, window-shop for Swiss watches and handmade ski gear.

Skiing and Summer Skiing

Zermatt’s ski domain covers 360 km of pistes connecting Zermatt with Cervinia in Italy across the Theodul Pass, with the Matterhorn Ski Paradise the largest and highest in Europe. The Glacier Paradise is open for year-round skiing and snowboarding; in summer, hours run morning only, with limited pistes. The town’s lift system is extensive and reliable; the new Alpine Crossing has reduced the transit time to Italy to about 1 hour 45 minutes.

Hiking and Mountaineering

Zermatt has more than 400 km of marked hiking trails, from gentle walks to serious alpine ridges.

• 5-Seenweg (Five Lakes Walk). An easy-to-moderate 9 km loop from Blauherd with five lakes (Stellisee, Grindjisee, Grünsee, Moosjisee, Leisee) and constant Matterhorn views.
• Matterhorn Glacier Trail. 6 km of unforgettable walking from Trockener Steg to Schwarzsee, along the foot of the Matterhorn, with interpretive boards on the glaciology.
• Edelweissweg. A shorter walk in summer with wildflower hunting.
• Hörnli Hut and Matterhorn ascent. For serious climbers, the climb to the Hörnli Hut (a 2-3 hour hike from Schwarzsee) is the base for the Matterhorn ascent. The climb itself requires experience, a qualified guide, and excellent weather.
• Via ferrata routes and glacier tours.

Eating Zermatt

Valaisian cuisine is hearty, cheese-heavy, and wine-rich.

• Fondue. Gruyère and Vacherin Fribourgeois melted in a caquelon with white wine and kirsch, served with bread cubes, gherkins, and pickled onions.
• Raclette. A half-wheel of the cheese melted and scraped onto boiled potatoes with cornichons, pickled onions, and dried meat.
• Älplermagronen. Alpine-style macaroni with potatoes, cream, Gruyère, onions, and bacon, served with apple purée.
• Rösti. Crispy grated potato cake, often with bacon and fried egg.
• Viande séchée (Bündnerfleisch, Wallisertrockenfleisch). Air-dried cured beef sliced paper-thin, a traditional starter.
• Cordon bleu, wiener schnitzel, and Swiss classics.
• Valais wines. Fendant (Chasselas-based white), Petite Arvine, Dôle (Pinot Noir-Gamay blend), and Heida (Savagnin). Most are produced within an hour’s drive down the valley.
• High-altitude mountain huts. Lunch with a glacier view at huts such as Chez Vrony, Fluhalp, Findlerhof, or the Riffelalp.
• Swiss chocolate. Local shops stock Toblerone (invented in Bern), Lindt, and smaller handmade brands.
• Après-ski. Glühwein (mulled wine) and hot chocolate, often with Swiss schnapps.

Where to Stay

Zermatt is more expensive than most Swiss villages. Choose between:

• Luxury grand hotels. Century-old hotels with spas, gourmet restaurants, and direct lift access.
• Mid-market chalets and apartments. Traditional wood exteriors with modern interiors.
• Family-run hotels (Gasthäuser). Friendly, smaller, excellent value for the village.
• Mountain huts (Berghütten). For hikers and climbers; the Hörnli Hut is the classic Matterhorn-ascent base, and other SAC huts offer basic dorms.

Book 6-12 months ahead for the Christmas-New Year weeks and ski high season (February-March). Summer (July-August) is also busy; early June and late September can give excellent value with reliably good weather.

Activities and Experiences

• Sunrise from Gornergrat. Take the earliest train up in summer and watch the Matterhorn glow.
• Sunset at Rothorn or Sunnegga.
• Glacier hike with a mountain guide.
• Mountain biking. Dedicated downhill and cross-country routes on Sunnegga and the Rothorn.
• Paragliding. Tandem flights from Rothorn.
• Ice climbing on the Gorner Glacier.
• Snowshoeing and winter hiking. 20 km of marked winter trails.
• Matterhorn Museum and an hour in the churchyard.
• Chocolate or watch shopping on Bahnhofstrasse.
• Alpine Crossing to Italy. Take a cable-car day trip across to Cervinia for a plate of Italian pasta and a Matterhorn view from the south.
• Evening walk through the Hinterdorf.
• Stargazing from Gornergrat. The night-long stargazing tours run in summer.

Practical Tips

• When to visit. Winter high season is mid-December to mid-April. Summer hiking is June-early October, with July-August peaks. Spring and autumn have shoulder-season charm, but some lifts close in late April-May and late October-November.
• Getting there. Zermatt is car-free. The nearest car park is at Täsch, 5 km away, from which a shuttle train runs to the village every 20 minutes. Alternatively, arrive by Swiss Rail: Zürich to Zermatt via Visp or Brig (around 3 hours from Zürich); from Geneva via Visp (around 3h 30m); the Glacier Express from St Moritz is a spectacular 8-hour scenic route.
• Village transport. Walk, or take the small electric taxis and horse-drawn sleighs.
• Currency. Swiss franc (CHF). Cards accepted widely; euros sometimes accepted with poor rates.
• Language. Swiss German is the village’s mother tongue; English is widely spoken; some French and Italian too. “Grüezi” is hello; “merci vilmal” (Swiss) or “danke” (standard German) for thank you.
• Prices. Zermatt is among Switzerland’s most expensive resorts. Plan accordingly; cooking at self-catering apartments saves money.
• Lift passes. The Peak2Peak cross-valley pass gives access to all ski areas including the Italian Cervinia side.
• Altitude. Top stations are over 3,000 m; go slowly, hydrate, and watch for altitude effects.
• Weather. Mountain weather changes fast. Check the daily lift-status and weather reports; not every station is open in bad weather.
• Sustainability. Zermatt has been a pioneer of mountain sustainability; reusable bottles, recycling, and glacier-conservation efforts are everywhere.

A Sample Three-Day Route

Day 1. Arrival by train; settle in the village, walk the Hinterdorf, visit the Matterhorn Museum, dinner in a fondue restaurant.

Day 2. Gornergrat Bahn at sunrise. Walk down from Rotenboden via Riffelsee, lunch at Riffelberg. Afternoon hiking or skiing. Dinner with Matterhorn sunset view.

Day 3. Sunnegga-Rothorn gondola. 5-Seenweg hike. Alpine lunch at Fluhalp or Chez Vrony. Cable cars up to Matterhorn Glacier Paradise for the glacier palace and the Italian view. Descent and a farewell dinner.

Day Trips and Excursions

• Alpine Crossing to Cervinia, Italy. A cross-border ski-lift adventure.
• Glacier Express. Ride a portion of the panoramic train to St Moritz.
• Brig and the Simplon Pass. A quick train trip down the valley.
• Saas-Fee. A neighbouring car-free ski resort, an hour away by train and bus.

Unexpected Experiences

• A sleigh ride or winter horse-drawn carriage through the village.
• A classical concert at the annual Zermatt Music Festival in September.
• A Matterhorn view from the Sunnegga funicular’s underground tunnel station, an architectural marvel.
• A Matterhorn viewpoint cocktail at one of the mountain-top restaurant bars at sundown.
• A glacier-hut overnight at one of the SAC huts for proper mountaineers.
• A photograph taken from the Riffelsee at dawn when the water is mirror-still.

Final Thoughts

Zermatt is a specialist place: it exists for the mountain and delivers its single extraordinary experience every clear morning. Around that experience, though, has grown an accomplished Alpine resort with fine food, excellent transport, and all the refinements of Swiss hospitality. Come for two or three nights minimum to improve your chances of a clear sky, and bring more layers than you think you need. Whatever your weather, few travellers leave the village without the conviction that they have just seen one of the most beautiful mountains in the world.