Heads up: some links here are affiliate links. Book or buy through them and we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. We only point you to things we would actually use. Twelve people crowd around a low cushioned table in a village home, passing a knife through a Makmoura the size of a car tire while the host, Galsoum Al-Sayyah, explains why the pastry is layered rather than rolled flat.