Romantic Helsinki: Summer Evenings, Winter Steam

Helsinki changes character between the long light evenings of June and the early dark of December, and so does the way couples spend time here. The same few places work all year, but you use them differently. Prices below are in euros.

Summer: light until late

On long summer evenings, Löyly on the Hernesaari waterfront is hard to beat. Two hours in its smoke sauna and wood-fired sauna cost €29, towel included, with an extra hour at €12, and you can walk down a ladder into the sea. Booking ahead is wise (loylyhelsinki.fi ). The terrace is the place for a drink afterwards. If you want to compare places to stay near the water, look at Helsinki hotels on Booking.com .

Suomenlinna suits a picnic. Fill a basket at the Old Market Hall with smoked salmon, Karelian pastries and cloudberry jam, board the HSL ferry from Market Square (€3.30 each on the app, €3.50 contactless), and settle on the rocks by the King’s Gate. Summer boats run every 15 to 30 minutes, so you can stay until dusk. Timetables are at hsl.fi .

Winter: steam and candlelight

In the dark months, the sauna is the date. Kotiharjun in Kallio charges €16 and opens Tuesday to Sunday, 14:00 to 20:00 (kotiharjunsauna.fi ). Allas Sea Pool is heated and overlooks the harbour; a two-hour ticket is €19 on weekdays and €24 from Friday afternoon to Sunday (allaspool.fi ). A cold plunge after the heat shocks the body, so go slowly, stay where staff are present and avoid it entirely with a heart condition. On the pavements, black ice is the real hazard, so wear boots with a good grip.

Dinner in any season

Ravintola Kuurna, Meritullinkatu 6 in Kruununhaka, is a candlelit bistro whose set menus change about every three weeks. Ravintola Sea Horse, Kapteeninkatu 11 in Ullanlinna, has painted seahorse murals and cooks Baltic herring and reindeer. Both are evening places, so reserve a table in advance.

A concert

The Helsinki Music Centre hosts the Finnish Radio Symphony Orchestra and the Helsinki Philharmonic in an acoustically excellent hall. Check the programme at musiikkitalo.fi and dress up a little.

Choosing your season

Summer favours the island picnic and the sea dip, and winter favours steam and a concert. For daytime stops between the two, see the Helsinki sightseeing page .

Tip: whatever the season, book Löyly in the late afternoon and dinner afterwards.

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