A Romantic Break in Waterville, Ring of Kerry
A romantic break in Waterville is built from simple things: a seafront stroll, dinner somewhere good, a clear night sky and a few hours on the Skellig Coast roads. This is a small village on the Ring of Kerry, so book your table and your room early in the summer months.
Hotels and inns
- Butler Arms Hotel. This four-star seafront hotel opened in 1884. It reopened in April 2026 under new ownership, and its own site calls it a luxury hotel. The Charlie Chaplin family, who holidayed in Waterville from 1959, were nearly turned away here and were then offered the owner’s suite.
- Smugglers Inn. On Cliff Road, this restored farmhouse of about 200 years was renovated in 2021. The restaurant serves lunch and dinner, and chef Henry Hunt cooks with seasonal local produce and seafood. A dome dining experience is on offer too. Phone 066 947 4330 to book.
- The Old Cable House is a historic 1866 cable-station house, and the Bay View Hotel is listed locally. The Sea Lodge Hotel is closed until further notice.
A night under the stars
The Kerry International Dark Sky Reserve was designated in 2013 and reached Gold Tier in January 2014. Waterville lies inside it. Kerry Dark Sky Tourism runs guided tours of 1.5 hours from €35 and meets at the church car park in Castlecove, a short drive from the village. You can also look up for free from the beaches and headlands, away from the lights of the village.
Low-tide walk to Abbey Island
At Derrynane the path to Abbey Island is open only when the tide is out, so look up the tide times first. The south side has unprotected cliff edges, and the walk is not for small children. Derrynane House, open until 1 November 2026, is a gentle first stop, and adults pay €5.
Skellig Coast at sunset
Drive from Waterville toward Ballinskelligs Bay and on to Kerry Cliffs, about 5 minutes before Portmagee. Kerry Cliffs charges about €5 per person, and its hours depend on the season. The bay views are best in the evening. A telescope viewpoint near Ballinskelligs sits on a bend with a small parking space, so pull in only when the road is clear.
The promenade at dusk
Waterville’s seafront promenade is level and quiet at the end of the day. The bronze Charlie Chaplin statue and the statue of Mick O’Dwyer stand along it.
A cruise past the Skelligs
For a day on the water, book a Skellig Michael and Little Skellig cruise. It costs from about €42 with Skellig Experience or about €60 with Casey’s, and lasts around 2.5 hours. The boat sails around the islands, and you will not step ashore. Gannets nest on Little Skellig. Weather often cancels sailings, so keep a spare day.
Sea safety
The beaches at Waterville and Inny are open Atlantic beaches with strong swell, and Derrynane has a marked no-swim area. Wade or swim only where a lifeguard flag flies in season.
Read more: couple activities in Waterville lists more things to do together.
Room prices are searchable on Booking.com , the Butler Arms site shows its current status, and the Smugglers Inn site describes the restaurant.