Type “Sheki” into a search bar and half the top results are actually about Baku’s skyline. They are not the same city, and mixing them up wastes a day. First, the disambiguation Sheki is a mountain town of around 68,000 people on the southern slopes of the Greater Caucasus, roughly 300 km northwest of Baku and 60 km from the Georgian border, sitting at 500 to 700 meters elevation. There are no skyscrapers, no seaside promenade and no double-decker sightseeing buses here: the cobblestone lanes of the old town are too steep and narrow for anything larger than a marshrutka minibus.

The guard at Sheki Khan’s Palace will stop you at the door for one thing most visitors do not expect: the camera around your neck, not the ticket in your hand. Sort the paperwork before you sort the itinerary Most Western, EU and many other passport holders can apply for Azerbaijan’s e-visa online at evisa.gov.az, tied to the exact passport used in the application, with standard processing running about 3 working days and a faster paid option in some cases.